Croatia was incredible.
I didn’t even know what to expect and was sooo pleasantly surprised. We took a train to Zagreb, the capital, and then on down to Split. It is a common practice at the train and bus stations for little old women and men to be standing there with signs saying “Accomodation” or “Rooms for Rent,” and it’s a lot less sketchy than it sounds! We ended up staying with a Croatian woman in Split. There were also 3 guys from USC in a room. We hung out on the lady’s terrace and then went to a bar in the old city. Very beautiful, narrow, and old cobblestone streets.
The next morning we toured the old city then caught a bus down to Dubrovnik to meet our friend Eren!!
The busride was crazy. About halfway, there was a loud crunching noise and the bus skidded to a stop. From the bus window Jayda and I saw there had been a terrible accident. A couple had been riding a moto and turned the corner too quick on a slippery road (it had just rained) and had slid on their side into our lane. The bus driver tried to avoid them by almost running us off the mountain. Thank goodness there was a guardrail that barely stopped us. The bus and moto were completely wrecked and gasoline was spilling all over the street. We got off the bus and watched from the side the ambulance come and take the lady (seemed her legs was barely attached and completely raw). The man driving was dead though—his helmet was smashed and his brains were sprayed across it. I have never in my life been that close to something like that. Jayda and I held hands and talked about how precious and fragile life is. Amazing how quickly everything can change.
Our bus passed through Bosnia, so I got to watch the sunrise there. Absolutely beautiful. I had no idea!! We bought beer and fried peanuts in Bosnia just to contribute to their economy and say we had.
In Dubrovnik we stayed with another family in their extra room. It is an ancient city surrounded by walls that we walked on and took pictures. The walls go right up to the sea and it is a beautiful view. That night we had a traditional Croatian dinner at a seafood restaurant inside the old city walls.
Tuesday the ninth, we caught the early bus back to Split and then took a ferry out to the island of Hvar. The weather was gorgeous so we spent the rest of the day on the beach. I can't believe how beautiful the water is and how far down I could see!! Bright blue and clear. That night we tried Croatia's famous octopus salad! It was actually pretty good! We then danced to techno music at the beach club, Carpe Diem. For the night we rented out a bedroom over an old man's apartment. We even had our own little terrace. Eren left us the next morning to go back to Madrid, but I was so happy we got to spend a little time with him:)
Jayda and I rented a kayak the next day and took it out in the Adriatic with the big cruise ships. Such a pretty day. That evening, we hiked up to a castle that overlooks the cityy and watched the sunset from there. The harbor was so pretty to see lit up at night and from our little room's window that night we could see the castle lit up.
The next morning it started raining while we were still asleep and the cute little man we were renting from ran out and took down our laundry we had hung up to dry so it didn't get wet. How cute! He didn't speak any English but was sooo sweet to us. We left Croatia that day and headed back through Slovenia. Ljubljana, the capital is this quaint town that still has Baroque architecture with a metropolitan feel to it. We had some sort of stuffed meat with meat and walked through the open air market. We walked across the Dragon Bridge (has green dragon statues on it), past the Robba and Hercules fountains, and into the Franciscan Church (this beautiful pink and white Baroque style church in the center of the city.) We had a great day, but then had to go our separate ways from there as Jayda went back to Geneva and I headed to Paris. I got a little choked up honestly. It has been so much fun and we had so many great times together this past month.
Wednesday, June 18, 2008
Buda and the Pest
Kristen went to her internship in London and Callie, Jayda and I took the train from Vienna to Budapest and got in on Monday evening. That night we had our first of many eastern European signature meals. Chicken stuffed with bacon and apples. They LOVE to stuff their meat with meat. The next morning we met friends from Wisconsin in our hostel and had a sightseeing day. We went to St. Stephen’s Basilica, climbed to the top and had a beautiful view of the city. I didn’t know this until we got there but the Danube River divides it into the cities of Buda and Pest. The girls and I continued onto the House of Terror Museum at 60 Andrassy St. It is the old headquarters for both the Nazi and Soviet regimes when they controlled Budapest and is now a museum detailing those periods. It was so interesting to see how seamlessly the two regimes switched power and how Hungarians had been living in fear for a good part of the century. Then we walked down to Heroes Square—a huge plaza with grand statues of important figures in Hungarian history. We took a stroll through their gorgeous City Park and through the Castle before heading back to our hostel.
That night we went out with the Wisconsin guys and some other Quebecois friends we made (I loved talking to them in French!) This bar was really cool too. So unassuming from the outside but inside was a huge patio with graffitied walls and large picnic tables.
Wednesday we checked out the Turkish Baths at Gellert Hotel. Soo beautiful—tiled walls and huge hot tubs and pools heated by the earth. I went into the steam bath. Oh my gosh the hottest thing of my life. You walk in and cannot even see because of the thick steam. You instantly start sweating and can’t breathe. I lasted about 5-7 minutes before I rushed out and dipped in the freezing pool outside. It was awesome. Outside was a hot tub and a wave pool that went off every hour. Nice day—the kids from the hostel met us there too.
That night was the best night ever. We went to the Gödör Klub near our hostel. Everyone sits out on the grass and drinks beer while listening to live music. There’s a fountain and underneath it is the actual dance club with a glass ceiling. That night a traditional Hungarian gypsy band played under the fountain and we danced the night away to songs we didn’t understand but apparently everyone knew the words. Our friend Kyle went up on stage and danced for a free cd…
We had our traditional Hungarian dinner on Thursday—goulash (beef stew) and some sort of meat stuffed meat (I think pork stuffed chicken or vice versa). I really loved the goulash and am getting used to all the meat. They also have good beer.
On Friday the girls and I toured the parliament building. So beautiful! You have to get tickets in advance and have a tour guide. It is huge—there wasn’t a budget when it was built. Our tour guide had a very dry sense of humor that really made the tour enjoyable. We picnicked and napped on Marguerite Island on the Danube that afternoon. That was cool-there were a ton of kids playing and people running.
That evening we did a wine tour. We paid 4400 HUF (like 20 euros?) and they handed us each a wine glass and directed us down to the cellar. There were over 50 wines to taste and they told us to just let them know if one was empty and they’d open a new one. KIDS IN A CANDYSTORE. Unfortunately, Callie left from Budapest and Jayda and I continued on to Croatia.
That night we went out with the Wisconsin guys and some other Quebecois friends we made (I loved talking to them in French!) This bar was really cool too. So unassuming from the outside but inside was a huge patio with graffitied walls and large picnic tables.
Wednesday we checked out the Turkish Baths at Gellert Hotel. Soo beautiful—tiled walls and huge hot tubs and pools heated by the earth. I went into the steam bath. Oh my gosh the hottest thing of my life. You walk in and cannot even see because of the thick steam. You instantly start sweating and can’t breathe. I lasted about 5-7 minutes before I rushed out and dipped in the freezing pool outside. It was awesome. Outside was a hot tub and a wave pool that went off every hour. Nice day—the kids from the hostel met us there too.
That night was the best night ever. We went to the Gödör Klub near our hostel. Everyone sits out on the grass and drinks beer while listening to live music. There’s a fountain and underneath it is the actual dance club with a glass ceiling. That night a traditional Hungarian gypsy band played under the fountain and we danced the night away to songs we didn’t understand but apparently everyone knew the words. Our friend Kyle went up on stage and danced for a free cd…
We had our traditional Hungarian dinner on Thursday—goulash (beef stew) and some sort of meat stuffed meat (I think pork stuffed chicken or vice versa). I really loved the goulash and am getting used to all the meat. They also have good beer.
On Friday the girls and I toured the parliament building. So beautiful! You have to get tickets in advance and have a tour guide. It is huge—there wasn’t a budget when it was built. Our tour guide had a very dry sense of humor that really made the tour enjoyable. We picnicked and napped on Marguerite Island on the Danube that afternoon. That was cool-there were a ton of kids playing and people running.
That evening we did a wine tour. We paid 4400 HUF (like 20 euros?) and they handed us each a wine glass and directed us down to the cellar. There were over 50 wines to taste and they told us to just let them know if one was empty and they’d open a new one. KIDS IN A CANDYSTORE. Unfortunately, Callie left from Budapest and Jayda and I continued on to Croatia.
Monday, June 2, 2008
Austria
So, in 2005 when I came to Vienna it rained and was cold and besides the opera, I was not impressed. This time, however, I had a blast. We stayed with my friend Amy in her apartment and I completely changed my opinion on the city. Amy toured us around the city through the Museum quarter and took us to a cool park with squishy purple lounge chairs and a fountain the first day. That night we had chicken schnitzel (fried chicken) and beers at the Bamraxler beer garden. I really like the atmosphere at beer gardens--tables outside with a playground and live music that is a really great place for families.
Saturday we rented bikes and rode around the city. We saw the Parliament building (second best in Europe, next to Budapest's), City Hall and Stadt Park. We took a picnic up to Schonbrunn Palace and Callie and I rolled down the grassy hills (we are growing up nicely.) That night we saw Falstaff at the Opera House-my favorite part. I love Vienna's opera house and the singing was breath taking. Then we met Amy afterwards at the Prater Amusement Park for a ride that threw us up in the air and spun around. Awesome. Afterwards we went to a bar on the Danube that was outside and faced the river. Everyone had their shoes off and feet in the sand. We also went to this part of town that has bars and restaurants called the Bermuda Triangle because you get lost there.
On Sunday we caught the three hour train to Salzburg, one of my favorite cities in Europe. It is where the "Sound Of Music" was filmed so we got a tour booklet and visited the garden where they sing "Do-Re-Mi," the cemetery they hide in, the church they're married in and then we climbed the mountain up to a really cool fortress. I loved the hike and the view from the top is totally worth it and amazing. The hills were alive with the sound of music.
I took a run with Amy on Monday morning down a horse path near her apartment. She ran the Vienna Half-Marathon in April and is a really great running buddy. We had to say goodbye to Kristen (she was starting her summer internship in London and had coffee at Café Kleine on Monday morning. The Café is quaint and frequented by young actors. I loved the "melanges," coffee and warm milk. In Austria I also tried apple strudel and the best bratwurst in the world. The chocolate's not shabby either.
Next stop, Budapest!
Saturday we rented bikes and rode around the city. We saw the Parliament building (second best in Europe, next to Budapest's), City Hall and Stadt Park. We took a picnic up to Schonbrunn Palace and Callie and I rolled down the grassy hills (we are growing up nicely.) That night we saw Falstaff at the Opera House-my favorite part. I love Vienna's opera house and the singing was breath taking. Then we met Amy afterwards at the Prater Amusement Park for a ride that threw us up in the air and spun around. Awesome. Afterwards we went to a bar on the Danube that was outside and faced the river. Everyone had their shoes off and feet in the sand. We also went to this part of town that has bars and restaurants called the Bermuda Triangle because you get lost there.
On Sunday we caught the three hour train to Salzburg, one of my favorite cities in Europe. It is where the "Sound Of Music" was filmed so we got a tour booklet and visited the garden where they sing "Do-Re-Mi," the cemetery they hide in, the church they're married in and then we climbed the mountain up to a really cool fortress. I loved the hike and the view from the top is totally worth it and amazing. The hills were alive with the sound of music.
I took a run with Amy on Monday morning down a horse path near her apartment. She ran the Vienna Half-Marathon in April and is a really great running buddy. We had to say goodbye to Kristen (she was starting her summer internship in London and had coffee at Café Kleine on Monday morning. The Café is quaint and frequented by young actors. I loved the "melanges," coffee and warm milk. In Austria I also tried apple strudel and the best bratwurst in the world. The chocolate's not shabby either.
Next stop, Budapest!
Italy!!
Jayda and I spent about 48 hours of travel to get from Santorini to Rome including 2 overnight ferries and 2 trains. We stopped in Athens for a few hours and toured the 2004 Olympic Stadium (where Samira swam :D) then continued on through Patras, Greece where I saw absolutely beautiful country. On the ferry from Patras to Bari, Italy I was THE most gorgeous sunset I have ever seen from the ship's deck. Incredible.
In the port city, Bari, Jayda and I walked through an open air fish market where one of the vendors convinced us to taste not only raw oysters, but raw jellyfish as well!! When in Bari...? We also went to St. Nicholas' church and saw his tomb. That night in Rome we met up with Callie and Kristen in Rome:) and caught up over a bottle of wine and sandwiches.
My first time in Rome was a blast (perhaps because my friends are so great.) We stayed in a super friendly hostel near the Termini Train Station where we had access to a kitchen and made dinner a couple nights.The first day we saw the Coliseum (took pictures with gladiators), the Forum, and the Pantheon (where we made friends with a Canadian tour guide who gave us a free tour.) We learned that Queen Margherita is buried in the Pantheon. She was from Naples, the birthplace of pizza and Italians loved her so much they named the Italian flag-colored pizza after her, the Margherita. Also, the columns were brought from Egypt and the originals had to be trimmed down 30 ft because thy were sinking the barges. That evening we went to a little island in the middle of the Tiber River and happy-houred with Barbie paper cups, red wine and lemon Fanta.
On Monday Callie and I went to the Vatican Museum in Vatican City. It was awesome. I loved the Egyptian art and we spent a good 30 minutes or so with our necks craned in the Sistine Chapel. It is so colorful and perfect. There are nine scenes from the Book of Genesis on the ceiling and the Last Judgment covering one whole wall. Then we went to St. Peter1s Basilica which I also really loved. It is humongous. Inside are markings on the floor where other smaller churches would fit. There are massive angel statues high up that are 7 feet tall but seem so much smaller from the ground. It is also awesome because all of the frescoes are actually mosaics that you can take pictures of. We had sandwiches and pasta at a restaurant nearby, Miscellanea. That night I took us on Rick Steeves walking night tour that started at Campo de Fiori abd went past Trevi Fountain (where you toss coins and wish for a return trip to Rome), then to the Spanish Steps.
Venice was the best time ever. We met Shannon, a girl who used to work in the AC and at Sports Camp in Perdanone and spent the night with her. Her husband, Johnny is stationed at Aviano Air Base and they were sweet enough to let us stay with them. Their place is gorgeous--big and out in the country. The Italian Alps are just beyond their backyard! Shannon took us on a drive through the mountains up to a church, then to this awesome minty turquoise colored lake and then up to the very top where a resort usually is. From the top, you can look down through the clouds and see the Friuli Region. We also did our laundry at the base, shopped at the BX for American products (honey Chex Mix) and had a fried chicken lunch at Popeye's.
Our hotel in Venice was actually in Mestre--on the mainland and just a bus ride away from Venice. Our first night, we went on a gondola ride with Emiliano, the gondolier. He had a gorgeous voice and sang Italian love songs. He let me sing a song and I chose Whitney Houston's "I Will Always Love You." Callie cried. Emiliano and I obviously became best friends and (get ready) he let me wear his hat and drive the gondola!!! We met some of his Gondolier friends later that evening and all got drinks at a bar in Venice. The hilarious part was the next morning when we went to buy a gondola calendar at a souvenir shop and realized we had hung out with Mr. April the night before.
We spent all day exploring Venice--saw Piazza San Marco, took a ferry down the Grand Canal, had a great lunch of pizza and spaghetti, and went to a glass blowing demonstration. I love Italy. The whole time we were there, us girls just joked and laughed, had a bunch of pizza and at least two gelatos a day (pear and chocolate1s the best but I also liked rose and peach!)
In the port city, Bari, Jayda and I walked through an open air fish market where one of the vendors convinced us to taste not only raw oysters, but raw jellyfish as well!! When in Bari...? We also went to St. Nicholas' church and saw his tomb. That night in Rome we met up with Callie and Kristen in Rome:) and caught up over a bottle of wine and sandwiches.
My first time in Rome was a blast (perhaps because my friends are so great.) We stayed in a super friendly hostel near the Termini Train Station where we had access to a kitchen and made dinner a couple nights.The first day we saw the Coliseum (took pictures with gladiators), the Forum, and the Pantheon (where we made friends with a Canadian tour guide who gave us a free tour.) We learned that Queen Margherita is buried in the Pantheon. She was from Naples, the birthplace of pizza and Italians loved her so much they named the Italian flag-colored pizza after her, the Margherita. Also, the columns were brought from Egypt and the originals had to be trimmed down 30 ft because thy were sinking the barges. That evening we went to a little island in the middle of the Tiber River and happy-houred with Barbie paper cups, red wine and lemon Fanta.
On Monday Callie and I went to the Vatican Museum in Vatican City. It was awesome. I loved the Egyptian art and we spent a good 30 minutes or so with our necks craned in the Sistine Chapel. It is so colorful and perfect. There are nine scenes from the Book of Genesis on the ceiling and the Last Judgment covering one whole wall. Then we went to St. Peter1s Basilica which I also really loved. It is humongous. Inside are markings on the floor where other smaller churches would fit. There are massive angel statues high up that are 7 feet tall but seem so much smaller from the ground. It is also awesome because all of the frescoes are actually mosaics that you can take pictures of. We had sandwiches and pasta at a restaurant nearby, Miscellanea. That night I took us on Rick Steeves walking night tour that started at Campo de Fiori abd went past Trevi Fountain (where you toss coins and wish for a return trip to Rome), then to the Spanish Steps.
Venice was the best time ever. We met Shannon, a girl who used to work in the AC and at Sports Camp in Perdanone and spent the night with her. Her husband, Johnny is stationed at Aviano Air Base and they were sweet enough to let us stay with them. Their place is gorgeous--big and out in the country. The Italian Alps are just beyond their backyard! Shannon took us on a drive through the mountains up to a church, then to this awesome minty turquoise colored lake and then up to the very top where a resort usually is. From the top, you can look down through the clouds and see the Friuli Region. We also did our laundry at the base, shopped at the BX for American products (honey Chex Mix) and had a fried chicken lunch at Popeye's.
Our hotel in Venice was actually in Mestre--on the mainland and just a bus ride away from Venice. Our first night, we went on a gondola ride with Emiliano, the gondolier. He had a gorgeous voice and sang Italian love songs. He let me sing a song and I chose Whitney Houston's "I Will Always Love You." Callie cried. Emiliano and I obviously became best friends and (get ready) he let me wear his hat and drive the gondola!!! We met some of his Gondolier friends later that evening and all got drinks at a bar in Venice. The hilarious part was the next morning when we went to buy a gondola calendar at a souvenir shop and realized we had hung out with Mr. April the night before.
We spent all day exploring Venice--saw Piazza San Marco, took a ferry down the Grand Canal, had a great lunch of pizza and spaghetti, and went to a glass blowing demonstration. I love Italy. The whole time we were there, us girls just joked and laughed, had a bunch of pizza and at least two gelatos a day (pear and chocolate1s the best but I also liked rose and peach!)
Sunday, May 25, 2008
Yamas!
I finished out the semester in Paris very well. The weather got beautiful and Paris really changes in the spring. We spent a lot of time in parks and one day at the Bois de Bologne a foresty area on the west of Paris where we rented a row boat and rowed around the little lake. I had a great last night with all of my friends at my favorite bar, Le Merle Moqueur and the next morning Jayda and I got on Easy Jet from Paris to Athens.
Athens was awesome. We stayed in a hostel near Omania Square and took the metro to the Acropolis. At the top of a hill overlooking the city--It was gorgeous up there. I loved the Parthenon and these statues of women on the side of the ruins. It was the greatest achievement in classical Greek art. From the top of the hill we looked down onto a theatre and we climbed up Mars Hill where Paul the Apostle supposedly read the Gospel. Jayda and I bought Gyros from a street vendor and just walked around the curvy stone streets. We also had baklava then went to the ancient Olympic stadium.
We made friends while touring and met them at the Hilton bar, Galaxy that night for wine. It was the most beautiful view. On the top floor of the Hilton, overlooking the city, and eye level with the Acropolis which is brilliantly lit at night. Lovely.
Next morning we caught the ferry to Santorini, aka my new favorite place. The island used to be a volcano and when it erupted, it collapsed into the ocean so now there is the volcano island in the middle with water all around. Then Santorini surrounds that with a caldera and sloping cliffs. It is known for its white buildings with blue roofed churches. We stayed in Hostel Anna on Paraissa Beach and met the most interesting people, including Australian girls who were backpacking and working their way through Europe "indefinitely" (and I thought a month was impressive!!)
We met up with 2 friends of Jayda's, Lisa and Laura, too. My favorite day was when we rented 4 wheelers to tour the island with. It allowed us to have our own schedule and see everything! We went to the Red Beach, the lighthouse, up to Ia, one of the major towns and walked around. I fell in love with the bright blue and white churches overlooking the Mediterranean. Jayda and I climbed down to this huge rock that used to have a castle built on top of it and watched the sunset.
The rest of the trip we spent on the beach or chillin in the capital, Fira. I even got some sun after gray Paris ;)
It was also reeeal cheap there and we got to try all sorts of new great foods--sesame round bread (mix between a sesame bagel and a pretzel), yogurt and honey and frappe coffees(breakfast treats), moussaka (layered potatoes, eggplant, tomatoe dish), stuffed vine leaves, souvlakakia (super flavorful meatballs), stuffed tomatoes...mmm. Great time and seriously enchanting. We met the nicest people ever--everyone went out of their way to help us and suggest things for us to do. (our waitress told us about Ammoudi Bay where at the restaurants you literally watch the fisherman bring in fresh fish from their boats and throw it on the grill, and the man who rented us the 4 wheelers was so grateful for our business he bought us drinks at a local bar.) I think it is the most beautiful place in the world and will post pictures soon. We took two overnight ferries and two trains and ... I am in Rome now! Loooving it. More to come bisous!
(oh I learned "yasas" (hello and goodbye), "yamas" (cheers), and kefi (fun) in Greek.
Greece was kefi kefi kefi all around.
Athens was awesome. We stayed in a hostel near Omania Square and took the metro to the Acropolis. At the top of a hill overlooking the city--It was gorgeous up there. I loved the Parthenon and these statues of women on the side of the ruins. It was the greatest achievement in classical Greek art. From the top of the hill we looked down onto a theatre and we climbed up Mars Hill where Paul the Apostle supposedly read the Gospel. Jayda and I bought Gyros from a street vendor and just walked around the curvy stone streets. We also had baklava then went to the ancient Olympic stadium.
We made friends while touring and met them at the Hilton bar, Galaxy that night for wine. It was the most beautiful view. On the top floor of the Hilton, overlooking the city, and eye level with the Acropolis which is brilliantly lit at night. Lovely.
Next morning we caught the ferry to Santorini, aka my new favorite place. The island used to be a volcano and when it erupted, it collapsed into the ocean so now there is the volcano island in the middle with water all around. Then Santorini surrounds that with a caldera and sloping cliffs. It is known for its white buildings with blue roofed churches. We stayed in Hostel Anna on Paraissa Beach and met the most interesting people, including Australian girls who were backpacking and working their way through Europe "indefinitely" (and I thought a month was impressive!!)
We met up with 2 friends of Jayda's, Lisa and Laura, too. My favorite day was when we rented 4 wheelers to tour the island with. It allowed us to have our own schedule and see everything! We went to the Red Beach, the lighthouse, up to Ia, one of the major towns and walked around. I fell in love with the bright blue and white churches overlooking the Mediterranean. Jayda and I climbed down to this huge rock that used to have a castle built on top of it and watched the sunset.
The rest of the trip we spent on the beach or chillin in the capital, Fira. I even got some sun after gray Paris ;)
It was also reeeal cheap there and we got to try all sorts of new great foods--sesame round bread (mix between a sesame bagel and a pretzel), yogurt and honey and frappe coffees(breakfast treats), moussaka (layered potatoes, eggplant, tomatoe dish), stuffed vine leaves, souvlakakia (super flavorful meatballs), stuffed tomatoes...mmm. Great time and seriously enchanting. We met the nicest people ever--everyone went out of their way to help us and suggest things for us to do. (our waitress told us about Ammoudi Bay where at the restaurants you literally watch the fisherman bring in fresh fish from their boats and throw it on the grill, and the man who rented us the 4 wheelers was so grateful for our business he bought us drinks at a local bar.) I think it is the most beautiful place in the world and will post pictures soon. We took two overnight ferries and two trains and ... I am in Rome now! Loooving it. More to come bisous!
(oh I learned "yasas" (hello and goodbye), "yamas" (cheers), and kefi (fun) in Greek.
Greece was kefi kefi kefi all around.
Sunday, May 11, 2008
Roxy's Visite
As her graduation present, Roxy got to come stay with me for a whole week! Madame fixed up the guest room for her and it was during my spring break so I was able to spend all day hanging out with my sister!
She arrived on Sunday morning and took the RER train and metro from the airport (all by herself wootwoot) to my house. Madame made us a really great lunch--French style chicken and potatoes, endives, camembert and bread. Roxy understood a lot of Madam's French and I played translator for a lot of it. It was a looovely day so we walked through Rue Mouffetard to the Pantheon. We sat at a little café outside facing the sidewalk, had kir cassis (black currant) and people watched. Then we walked down to Notre Dame and into the Marais. At Place des Vosges there were a bunch of people picnicking and laying in the grass so we grabbed a spot and Roxy took a nap.
That night, my friend Jackie's sister got us VIP tickets to see the American, We Are Scientists. It was Nouveau Casion off rue Oberkampf. They have more of a fan base in Europe and have been touring here for months. The show was awesome and we hung around after and met some of the band members. We grabbed really yummy crepes afterwards then headed to the Fifth Bar for my friend Audrey's 21st birthday party
Monday morning I let Roxy sleep in and then we headed to Père Lachaise, the famous cemetary, for the afternoon. It was raining when we got there so we ducked into a crepe restaurant to wait it out and have our 2nd crepe of the trip. Roxy reeally enjoyed the cemetary (pleasantly pleased me) and we spent a good couple of hours just strolling. It's a lot cooler than it sounds--really big with beautiful trees and flowers. We saw the famous graves-Oscar Wilde, Edith Piaf, Chopin...and admired the simple beauty of others. Then we caught the Metro to the tip top of the city at Porte de la Chappelle to go to the boulangerie that recently won the award "Best Baguette of Paris, 2008." The boulangerie, Le Duc de la Chappelle, was adorable and we took our baguette to Montmartre to have a picnic at Sacre Couer. Paired with some camembert and red wine, the best baguette in Paris was, I'm not gonna lie, prettty decent. We saw the sunset from the top of Montmartre hill and ate our French picnic on a bench. It was so nice and the rain stopped just in time for the sunset. Then we met my friend Eva at a bar, Le Foroum, that is right off the main drag in Montmartre. They have a chandelier made of wine bottles and a really young French crowd. We had some wine and just talked.
Tuesday we were very ambitious and woke up early. We went to la Madeleine church--beautiful inside and Roxy lit a candle. Then to the Wine Museum which was really cool--learned about the making of wine and saw the old farming equipment and stuff. We even got to try a little wine:) Then we went to l'As de Falafel in the Marais mmm. Roxy liked falafel!! big success. We even sat next to 2 Orthodox Jew young men who discussed their politics with us. After lunch, we went on a walking tour lead by yours truly. We saw the English bookstore Shakespeare and Co., Simone de Beauvoir's café--Café du Flore, Hemingway's pub--Brasserie Lipp and Gertrude Stein and Alice B. Toklas' old apartment at 27 rue du Fleurus. We visited our 4th café of the trip on the way home. We made a big salad with sautéed eggplant and an egg over easy for dinner.
Wednesday we went to the Marie Antoinette exhibition at the Grand Palais. The building, like the Eiffel Tour, was built for the 1900 Paris Exhibition. The exhibit was really interesting. There were tons of paintings and sculptures of her and a letter she had written to her mother Maria Theresa explaining that she had to keep hiring different painters because none of the paintings looked like her. The sculptures, her ceramic tea sets and all the beautiful furniture were awesome too. I was also surprised to learn that she really liked hunting. Then we crossed the street to the Petit Palais and saw the Museum of Fine Arts there. I really liked this one life size sculpture of Adam and Eve carrying Abel after he's been murdered. Very interesting. We had cheese sandwiches on the Champs-Elysées then went to the Grand Mosque of Paris and had mint tea in the tea room. The Mosque is gorgeous--in Moroccan style architecture--all white with turquoise tiles. Then we walked through Jardin des Plantes--beautiful in bloom!! Roxy made us chicken curry for dinner that night:)
Thursday (May 1) was apparently Labor Day in France. So everything was clooosed. So we just walked around the city all day--past the Eiffel Tour, along the Seine and through the Luxembourg Gardens were we saw a photo exhibit of really interesting and disturbing photos from Le Figaro-a newspaper in Paris. We had sandwiches and wine at Neo Café in St-Germain-des-Pres then headed home. That night we met my friend Sacha and two guys, Didier and Samuel at Le Merle Moquer (rum bar by my house). We got a tray of all the flavors of rum to try and danced to French music that everyone knew the words too. Hilarious.
Friday last day:( We had fresh croissants for breakfast and took the Metro to Montmartre to the Erotic Museum. ehhem. I do not suggest it. But it was cool to see pictures from the 1920's of brothels and cabaret girls. Then we walked up to the Moulin Rouge. That afternoon we spent in Luxembourg again--sitting on a bench with a cheese sandwich just people watching and getting hit on by des drageurs, pick up artists. We had the best fondue dinner! At La Grange in the 5th arrondissement. Then caught the Metro to La Comedie Francaise for "Penthesilee," a Greek tragedy about the Amazonian queen. Oh man the actors were incredible. The show was great--even though we didn't understand a lot of the plot due to the whole French thing. It was really nice though..
Saturday morning I rode the RER to the airport because she took home a big suitcase for me. It was really sad to say goodbye but we had such a great week together and I was sooo happy to see her. It'll only be another 5 weeks before we're reunited again.
That afternoon, I met Audrey, Amy, Hayley and Sarah under the Eiffel Tour for a cheese and bread picnic. We wore berets...it was awesome.
Thursday, April 24, 2008
Mes Etudes
So I have been doing a lot of very interesting school work lately and thought I would share that for a change:)
In my Muslim Presence in Europe class, we had a discussion/debate on the headscarf law in France. Similar to Turkey's, since 2004 France has outlawed the wearing of ostentatious religious symbols in public schools. France has a strong tradition of "laicité" (secularism) and also a history of conflicts between "la Republique" and integrating Muslims. I didn't necessarily take a side on the debate, but I do have an opinion on the law. It seems to me that the problems France has with integration and the racism Muslims experience won't be solved by making little girls take off their scarves. Obviously in some cases, these girls were pressured into wearing the scarves by authoritative male figures...but for the most part they chose to wear them themselves. As a sign of piety and modesty. Those in charge of creating the law, members of the Stasi Commission surprisingly never actually interviewed a Muslim schoolgirl.
I can understand the state's feeling that SOMETHING needed to be done. There was an increase in violence in the "cités" (poor urban towns surrounding big cities where most minorities live) and teachers felt their authority was being undermined by the girls (in gym class where they refused to participate). I also agree that France has major problems assimilating its minorities into French culture. There is an idea of what it means to be French and most times that includes being white. Colonialism has lead to big societal problems and all of these things should be addressed by the government. I read the book, "Why the French Don't Like Headscarves" and it explained that many women viewed the wearing of the "voile" or "foullard" as a hostile act. It also noted the girls explained their choice to wear the scarf as a result of being born and raised in France. They said la Republique provided them with institutions and freedom to learn Arabic more about Islam. Interesting also is the fact that most first-generation immigrant women do not wear the scarves, au contraire, their daughters and grand-daughters who were born in France and rose through the public school system do.
All in all, I find the subject very interesting and was really excited to learn so much about it.
In my Art-History class I gave a presentation on Gertrude and her brother Leo Stein and their contribution to the works and lives of Picasso and Matisse. It was cool because Gertrude and Leo after Picasso's first cubist masterpiece, "Les Demoiselles d'Avignon," were so divided on their views of Cubism, separated their art collection and Leo moved out. Also, it was interesting to compare Gertrude's writing at the time she was so close to Picasso with his painting. They both had Cubist collage styles!
And in my French conversation class I read my first full French novel, "Bonjour Tristesse" by Francoise Sagan! I gave a 30 minute presentation (en francais!) over the novel and the author's life. Sagan failed out of the Sorbonne after her first year and that summer wrote the novel! She was only 18 and the English version made the New York Time's Bestseller list! The book was really good but sad (hence the title which translates into "Hello Sadness").
Champagne Tasting in Reims
We took a bus to Reims on April 5th and went to the Mumm champagne museum and store. There was a video and tour of the museum. It was really cool to learn about the Mumm family who owns 540 acres of vineyards in the Champagne region. They have three grapes: Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, black grapes, and Chardonnay, a white grape, and the taste of champagne comes from the combination of them. Isn't that interesting? The champagne was really good--we tasted their classic Cordon Rouge. "You can get a whole bunch of Mumm's."
We also had a lovely lunch and then saw the Notre-Dame de Reims was very similar to the one in Paris--same style of architecture, built in the 1200's and our tour guide said they did some of the French kings' coronations here. The tour guide and my French prof, Lucie got into this sarcastic argument because the tour guide was making fun of Lucie's Parisian accent.
Sunday, my friend Jon came to town. Poor guy got in a fight at the Duplex and had a huge gash across his nose. We decided he should photoshop it out of his pics of Paris before showing his mom... He, Brendan and I went to the Eiffel Tour with some bread and cheese and sat on a park bench. It just happened to be the coldest weekend in Paris yet and began snowing on us and making our baguette soggy BUT the view made up for it! In the fountains near the tour there appeared to be some sort of a protest--the water was dyed red and fake human bodies were floating in it.
On Monday I played tour guide for Jon and as we were walking down the Champs-Elysées, we were blocked from the Arc de Triomphe by Chinese Nationalists and pro-Tibet supporters who lined the street in anticipation of the Olympic torch run! We got to see both the carrier of the torch--a Chinese fencer in a wheelchair and the demonstrators! There was chanting, Chinese and Tibetan flags, huge banners hung from the windows with the Olympic rings composed up of handcuffs, and a fight even broke out! What's going on with the Olympics is so interesting to me and I am really glad there are so many defending Tibet. I can't understand the Chinese nationalists view, though.
We also had a lovely lunch and then saw the Notre-Dame de Reims was very similar to the one in Paris--same style of architecture, built in the 1200's and our tour guide said they did some of the French kings' coronations here. The tour guide and my French prof, Lucie got into this sarcastic argument because the tour guide was making fun of Lucie's Parisian accent.
Sunday, my friend Jon came to town. Poor guy got in a fight at the Duplex and had a huge gash across his nose. We decided he should photoshop it out of his pics of Paris before showing his mom... He, Brendan and I went to the Eiffel Tour with some bread and cheese and sat on a park bench. It just happened to be the coldest weekend in Paris yet and began snowing on us and making our baguette soggy BUT the view made up for it! In the fountains near the tour there appeared to be some sort of a protest--the water was dyed red and fake human bodies were floating in it.
On Monday I played tour guide for Jon and as we were walking down the Champs-Elysées, we were blocked from the Arc de Triomphe by Chinese Nationalists and pro-Tibet supporters who lined the street in anticipation of the Olympic torch run! We got to see both the carrier of the torch--a Chinese fencer in a wheelchair and the demonstrators! There was chanting, Chinese and Tibetan flags, huge banners hung from the windows with the Olympic rings composed up of handcuffs, and a fight even broke out! What's going on with the Olympics is so interesting to me and I am really glad there are so many defending Tibet. I can't understand the Chinese nationalists view, though.
Monday, April 14, 2008
Nîmes
My program went to Nîmes in the south of France for the weekend. We took a train from Paris and immediately put on our shades when we got there;) We were all so happy to be in a warm climate--people were wearing sun-dresses and flip-flops! We had a great lunch the first day and then met up with a tour guide to see the coliseum, Arènes, e climbed to the top and learned about the gladiators and wild animals that used to battle there. They also used to have bullfights there. It's crazy to me that the bulls actually die at the end of the fights! (even in modern-day fights)
We went to the center of the village and just as we walked past this church there were wedding bells and we saw the newlyweds coming out of the church:) The Roman architecture of the town was beautiful.
That night at dinner we had foie gras (i know, i know) and afterwards went to a bar called Victor Hugo.
Sunday morning we went to the aqueduct nearby, Pont du Gard. It's settled in the hills and it was great to be outside climbing on trees and hiking around. (Mom, you'll be happy to hear I did a little meditation while we were up in the hills surrounded by nature.) Then we had this great lunch salmon cakes and a beef dish (turned out to be bull...?) in a big white tent with colored paper lanterns and a great view of the river and mountains. It was incredible.
On our way back to Nîmes, we stopped at the Haribo museum--they make gummy bears--and toured around there, got some tasters etc. I also stopped in a little shop that sold souvenirs and made their own honey and jams. They had orange and chestnut wines!
My roommates in the hotel (Amy, Audrey and Hayley) were really funny and each night people came over to our room and we all stayed up laughing, telling stories and hanging out till late.
Thursday, April 10, 2008
Un super séjour avec ma famille!
My parents got into Paris on Thursday morning but because I had class I couldn't meet up with them until 5 that evening. I also met Eren and Lauren at the Opera House to see them once more before they left. We started with wine, cheese and bread at the hotel, then we went to a cute fondue restaurant nearby! For some reason I was the only one who actually ordered fondue, but everyone tried a little. J’étais trés heureuse de voir ma famille. They were all so cute at their French attempts and looking to me to communicate to the waiter.
Friday morning I went to breakfast with Scott, Kristen and Brendan before my afternoon classes. Straight after class I hurried to my parents hotel for another wine and cheese happy hour (we enjoyed a good many of these). Tom had discovered the Monoprix (think a nicer Wal-Mart slash Target--with fresh breads and super cheap Bordeaux wines) and he kept a good stock of treats for us. My parents, Di and Tom were sooo sweet and took Scott, Kristen and Brendan out to a fancy pants dinner! We went up to Montmartre (everyone falling inline behind me as we zig zagged through the Metro stations and had to change trains 3 times! It was cool to show them around--I felt like such a chic Parisian) and went to a fabulous seafood restaurant. Di finally got some escargot and we all shared big trays of shellfish. Fun stories and really cool for me to introduce my friends to the fam! Us kids hung out at a bar in Montmartre for Kristen and Scott's last night.
Saturday morning I met the fam at their hotel and we went for a walk in the Jardin du Luxembourg. Di went for a run, Tom, KC and Brooke walked to the Marais. My parents and I took a stroll down St-Michel to see the famous fountain. It is of St-Michel who is the protector of France, slaying a dragon. It is also right in the middle of the Latin Quarter near the Sorbonne. It started to downpour as we walked though, so we stopped in a little café for some soupe d'oignon (French onion soup. They just call it onion soup here) and café au lait. Unfortunately my dad wasn't feeling well (the whole trip:( ! ) So he went back, Di, my mom and I did a little shopping and Di bought the most adorable coat. It is a periwinkle/gray/blue longish trench style but has 3/4 length sleeves with a bit of a ruffle. She also got a matching scarf! So chic. That night I got to take KC and Brooke out for a little while and introduced them to some of my friends:)
Sunday=Happy Easter in Paris! Most unconventional Easter ever! We went to the Musée d'Orsay (the Impressionist painters) and I had a great time explaining the paintings I have learned in my Art History class. They really enjoyed the Manets and Degas. I think Tom liked the pointillism paintings. Afterward, we had "Easter Brunch" at a falafel restaurant in the Jewish district (the Marais). The place was bumpin (as always on Sundays) and we got a table for 7 right away! The waiters (ours especially) were fun and we all marveled at their teamwork. One would put something in the microwave and another would come up just in time to grab it. They also seemed about a minute from colliding into each other and spilling falafel balls and french fries (just plain frites here ;) ) everywhere. We were beat after that and just hung out at the hotel. I met Audrey at a café for some vin chaud that evening.
The Monday after Easter in Paris (and probably all of France) the city shuts down. Besides tourist attractions and a few stores, nothing is open. We were lucky to go to le Louvre! Oh man it was packed. I can't imagine what the actual "season" will be like because man it was crazy in there. Especially the Mona Lisa room (salle de la Jaconde) which is pretty overrated but definitely a must-see. I really enjoyed the Egyptian art and the Persian rooms were something I didn't think I would be into but thought were soo cool! My parents really liked the Flemish paintings I think.
Afterwards we had pizza at a place off Chatelet (short walk from le Louvre) and did a little shopping at H&M (huuuge European clothing store that has recently opened chains in the U.S.)
That evening I needed to work on schoolwork (yes, it's true, I do attend classes in Paris!) so the whole gang went with me to a nearby café. Les Patios was just off the Place de la Sorbonne and there was this great little bluesy swingy jazzy singer and her trio in there! I wrote a poem in French and had some wine with my loves. It was such a great ambiance--low lighting and beautiful songs. The singer was awesome (cute and little) and obvi my family was a great add to the evening.
Tuesday I had class all day! boooo. So I only got to meet the fam for a quick lunch on their way to exploring the Latin Quarter. That evening we did a really nice dinner at Bouillon Racine (a Belgian restaurant near the hotel) that Eemaw and Eepaw had been to when they were here :) The food was awesome (I had duck mmm think I can get enough while I'm here?) and once again the service was funny (it was "pas possible" for us to sit upstairs)
Wednesday the gang went to Versailles and I worked on a midterm paper. That evening Momma and Dad got to meet Madame! H I L A R I O U S. Like I've mentioned, she doesn't speak a word of English. And as you can guess, my parents are a little rusty on their French (although Mom did try to throw in some Spanish words here and there). Madame was wonderful. She brought out little sandwiches, cookies, cakes and olives and different kinds of wine to choose from. Through my translating, they discovered a shared love of Jazz! Madame brought out a stack of all her jazz cd's and put one on for us! The parents loved this. She told them I was a hard worker and pleasant to have:)
This was their last night (we thought) in Paris so we went back to the hotel to say goodbye to Di, Tom, KC and Brooke.
(American Airlines failed to inspect their planes so my parents got to stay one more night in Paris! I spent the night with them at their airport hotel! Not bad!)
Friday morning I went to breakfast with Scott, Kristen and Brendan before my afternoon classes. Straight after class I hurried to my parents hotel for another wine and cheese happy hour (we enjoyed a good many of these). Tom had discovered the Monoprix (think a nicer Wal-Mart slash Target--with fresh breads and super cheap Bordeaux wines) and he kept a good stock of treats for us. My parents, Di and Tom were sooo sweet and took Scott, Kristen and Brendan out to a fancy pants dinner! We went up to Montmartre (everyone falling inline behind me as we zig zagged through the Metro stations and had to change trains 3 times! It was cool to show them around--I felt like such a chic Parisian) and went to a fabulous seafood restaurant. Di finally got some escargot and we all shared big trays of shellfish. Fun stories and really cool for me to introduce my friends to the fam! Us kids hung out at a bar in Montmartre for Kristen and Scott's last night.
Saturday morning I met the fam at their hotel and we went for a walk in the Jardin du Luxembourg. Di went for a run, Tom, KC and Brooke walked to the Marais. My parents and I took a stroll down St-Michel to see the famous fountain. It is of St-Michel who is the protector of France, slaying a dragon. It is also right in the middle of the Latin Quarter near the Sorbonne. It started to downpour as we walked though, so we stopped in a little café for some soupe d'oignon (French onion soup. They just call it onion soup here) and café au lait. Unfortunately my dad wasn't feeling well (the whole trip:( ! ) So he went back, Di, my mom and I did a little shopping and Di bought the most adorable coat. It is a periwinkle/gray/blue longish trench style but has 3/4 length sleeves with a bit of a ruffle. She also got a matching scarf! So chic. That night I got to take KC and Brooke out for a little while and introduced them to some of my friends:)
Sunday=Happy Easter in Paris! Most unconventional Easter ever! We went to the Musée d'Orsay (the Impressionist painters) and I had a great time explaining the paintings I have learned in my Art History class. They really enjoyed the Manets and Degas. I think Tom liked the pointillism paintings. Afterward, we had "Easter Brunch" at a falafel restaurant in the Jewish district (the Marais). The place was bumpin (as always on Sundays) and we got a table for 7 right away! The waiters (ours especially) were fun and we all marveled at their teamwork. One would put something in the microwave and another would come up just in time to grab it. They also seemed about a minute from colliding into each other and spilling falafel balls and french fries (just plain frites here ;) ) everywhere. We were beat after that and just hung out at the hotel. I met Audrey at a café for some vin chaud that evening.
The Monday after Easter in Paris (and probably all of France) the city shuts down. Besides tourist attractions and a few stores, nothing is open. We were lucky to go to le Louvre! Oh man it was packed. I can't imagine what the actual "season" will be like because man it was crazy in there. Especially the Mona Lisa room (salle de la Jaconde) which is pretty overrated but definitely a must-see. I really enjoyed the Egyptian art and the Persian rooms were something I didn't think I would be into but thought were soo cool! My parents really liked the Flemish paintings I think.
Afterwards we had pizza at a place off Chatelet (short walk from le Louvre) and did a little shopping at H&M (huuuge European clothing store that has recently opened chains in the U.S.)
That evening I needed to work on schoolwork (yes, it's true, I do attend classes in Paris!) so the whole gang went with me to a nearby café. Les Patios was just off the Place de la Sorbonne and there was this great little bluesy swingy jazzy singer and her trio in there! I wrote a poem in French and had some wine with my loves. It was such a great ambiance--low lighting and beautiful songs. The singer was awesome (cute and little) and obvi my family was a great add to the evening.
Tuesday I had class all day! boooo. So I only got to meet the fam for a quick lunch on their way to exploring the Latin Quarter. That evening we did a really nice dinner at Bouillon Racine (a Belgian restaurant near the hotel) that Eemaw and Eepaw had been to when they were here :) The food was awesome (I had duck mmm think I can get enough while I'm here?) and once again the service was funny (it was "pas possible" for us to sit upstairs)
Wednesday the gang went to Versailles and I worked on a midterm paper. That evening Momma and Dad got to meet Madame! H I L A R I O U S. Like I've mentioned, she doesn't speak a word of English. And as you can guess, my parents are a little rusty on their French (although Mom did try to throw in some Spanish words here and there). Madame was wonderful. She brought out little sandwiches, cookies, cakes and olives and different kinds of wine to choose from. Through my translating, they discovered a shared love of Jazz! Madame brought out a stack of all her jazz cd's and put one on for us! The parents loved this. She told them I was a hard worker and pleasant to have:)
This was their last night (we thought) in Paris so we went back to the hotel to say goodbye to Di, Tom, KC and Brooke.
(American Airlines failed to inspect their planes so my parents got to stay one more night in Paris! I spent the night with them at their airport hotel! Not bad!)
Monday, March 31, 2008
So many visitors!
I haven't written in awhile because I have been really busy with a ton of visitors from home!! It was like a mini-vacation back to the U.S.!
I visited Amboise on March 15 with a group from school. It is just a short bus ride to the West of Paris. Leonarda da Vinci spent the last years in a cute cottage there. We visited this gorgeous chateau and cathedral there that Leonardo is buried in. It was a charming little village and was so cool because they had duplicates of Leonardo's inventions all through his house and garden. We played on his bridges and frolicked around the yards. It started to rain in the afternoon and we stopped in a cute little café where the waitress could not understand my French no matter how hard I tried. Perhaps it is my Parisian accent?
I picked up Callie (from Tulane who is studying in Grenada, Spain) from the Metro stop that night when the airport shuttle dropped her off. I took her to her hostel in the 15th arrondissement so she could get all settled in. It was also technically St. Patrick's Day according to the Pope so we had a Guinness at the bar before I headed home.
Sunday morning I went for a run in Jardin du Luxembourg then met Callie at her hostel. We walked to the Marais to meet friends for lunch. The Marais is the gay slash Jewish area of town. On Sundays when the rest of the city shuts down the Marais comes alive! There are adorable little vintage boutiques, Jewish bakeries, gay bars, synagogues, falafel restaurants, and a funky ambiance. Six girls including Caila (from Tulane who is studying at AUP) met us at this fabulous little falafel place. It was of course packed and buzzing with activity. We had vegetarian falafel sandwiches and Callie, Caila and I got to catch up on each other's lives and the little Tulane gossip we are aware of;)
The three of us walked to the Bastille and had cafés under a heated terrace while it sprinkled on us. That evening, Callie and I went to my favorite little wine bar and were able to just sit and talk. It was nice to be just with her and tell stories and hear all about her Spanish boyfriend, crazy landlady and fun times at the beach in Grenada.
On Monday I met her at Musée de l'Orangerie and walked through the Tuilerie gardens to the Champs Elysees. Around 2 we picked up Scott and Kristen (on Spring Break all the way from Tulane!!) at the train station. They had spent the weekend in London and I was sooo happy to see them! We dropped off their bags at my apartment, grabbed a couple croque monsieurs (toasted ham and cheese sandwiches) then met up with Brendan (from Tulane studying at Sciences Po in Paris). It was fun having to order in French for them and navigating around my city. We went to the rum bar by my house and shared a tray of rum shots including fun flavors like melon, coconut and lemon. We went out that night at an Anglophone bar for the real St Patrick's Day, partied and caught up Tulane style and Kristen and Scott stayed at Brendan's apartment.
I had class on Tuesday but was able to meet Kristen and Scott at the Notre Dame for lunch. That evening Eren and Lauren (my roommate in NOLA who is at Tulane this semester) finally got to Paris!! We went to the Duplex (an underground club on the Champs-Élysées) and danced the night away. There are two big rooms--one plays house slash techno music and the other is more mainstream American hip-hop. There were 7 of us close friends and we had such a blast. Lauren turned 21 at midnight and it was really cool to all be together in Paris.
The next day Di, Tom, KC and Brooke all got into Paris in the morning! They stayed at the Hotel les Jardin du Luxembourg--just a 35 minute walk or a 15 minute bus ride from my house! I met them at the hotel and we went to breakfast a café across the street. The girls and Tom had omelettes, Di a croissant and I had a crepe with nutella and bananas. We were all pretty beat but I was soo happy to see them! Our waitor was a character! He told us he was going to America in a month to meet a wife and Tom noticed he changed from wearing a bow-tie to a regular tie half way through the meal. We made dinner plans and while those guys took a nap, I met the Tulane crew under the Tour Eiffel to have a birthday picnic. My present to Lauren was a big bag filled with four different cheeses (roquefort, chevre, brie, camembert), two bottles of wine and two baguettes. Although it was cloudy and we were sprinkled on I thought it was a perfect day. I was so lucky to be with my best friend on her birthday under one of the prettiest things in the world. We talked and laughed like I hadn't missed a day at Tulane:) I was sad to see them leave but so lucky to have spent a few days with Callie, Eren and Lauren.
Monday, March 3, 2008
Patine sur la Glace à l'Hôtel de Ville
Saturday I went on a run around Jardin des Plantes, then met Hayley and Amy à l'Hôtel de Ville to go ice skating! We rented ice skates, even though Amy is like a pro or something. She has been ice skating all her life and has won all sorts of competitions and tried out for big shows and things. She was all upset she didn't have her ice skates because she couldn't skate as well and pull as many tricks. Hayley and I spent most of our time on the wall or holding Amy's hand to stay up. It was a bright warm day and they were playing Rihanna, Justin Timberlake and other American pop singers over loud speakers. The ice was melting really bad so there was a layer of water on top of the ice that was a little scary but still fun. We definitely made a spectacle clutching each other and scooting around the edge of the rink.
We then went inside l'Hôtel de Ville to see a photograph exposition, "Paris la Métisse." It was all photos of Paris and each one had the arrondissement distinguished on the placard. Everything from little kids painting in a park to a couple kissing on a bridge to a homeless man sleeping on the streets. They were all in black and white and very pretty.
Saturday night, I went to Amy's house because she made dinner. Her host family was supposed to be out of town but they surprised her by coming home early. Liliann, the wife, is friends with my Madame, but they are on the outs right now. Liliann asked me all these questions about Madame (like "what do you think the problem is in her family?") and of course I didn't know what to say. Finally, the couple went to a movie and Amy and I had a nice dinner of pasta and vegetables, salad, cheese, bread and wine. We met my friend Lauren Kelley from Tulane that night and went out dancing around Chatelet.
Sunday I went to Hayley's house for lunch. The lady she lives with, Laura, is a sweetheart and invited me over. She made couscous (she used to live in Algeria) and invited her Muslim son over. It was really good but she insisted we eat so much! She is a classic grandma figure so sweeeet and constantly giving us food. After lunch, she insisted I stay and take a nap there so I wouldn't be home alone in my apt. Hayley and I watched "Juno" and then went out just the two of us. We ended up meeting 4 American boys who are MBA students at WIlliam and Mary College and hung out with them all evening.
Sunday, March 2, 2008
Happy Leap Year!
It only took me about a day to recover from London and this week I did a lot. Madame and I had dinner on Monday night and she made falafel balls, rice, and veggies. She was surprised I knew what falafel was. It was nice though and she was very interested in my trip to London.
On Wednesday I went to the Cluny Museum. It is right next to the Sorboone in the Latin Quarter and is a middle ages museum. Mom and had told be there was a chastity belt there, but I don't think it's there anymore. What the museum is really known for is its tapestries. There is this one huge one called The lady and the Unicorn that is in a dark room to preserve the colors. It was really pretty. I also saw Middle Age jewelry, tombstones, Roman baths, intricate and elaborate altars, statues, shoes, swords, stained glass, and armor. Very cool place if you are into the Middle Ages.
That evening I went with Henry to an American jazz club. We heard a girl named Felicia from the US who has lived and studied in South Africa and is now in Paris. Henry met her while he was doing volunteer work in South Africa. She sang some really great soulful stuff and had this deep sultry voice. The pianist and bass player were American, but the bass guitarist (Michel) was French. My favorite song of hers was "Summertime" but she also did renditions of "A Few of My Favorite Things" and "God Bless the Child." It was gorgeous and we were sitting right next to her.
Madame went out of town this week and left the apartment all to me! So on Friday after class, I rushed home to make dinner for Hayley and Amy. I had know idea how to work Madame's oven. I needed to set it at 200 degrees celsius and the two knobs were only numbered 1-6 and 1-10. I also didn't know if I needed to light it with a match because she has a gas stove. I was making a chicken and potato casserole and was worried i would overcook it on the stove. It turned out ok though! I found the recipe on an easy-French cooking website. it is made with white wine and was really good. Hayley and Amy came over and brought wine, cheese, bread, and salad. We lit a candle and used Madame's prettydishes while listening to Edith Piaf, the French singer.
Afterwards we went to a bar near my house. It is a rum bar so they had about 20 different kinds of rum in these big jars. From chocolate to mango to raspberry. All the French kids in there were singing along with the music, these French songs we had never heard. It was so rowdy and fun. We really need to learn those songs though. Amy spent the night because she is home alone too.
On Wednesday I went to the Cluny Museum. It is right next to the Sorboone in the Latin Quarter and is a middle ages museum. Mom and had told be there was a chastity belt there, but I don't think it's there anymore. What the museum is really known for is its tapestries. There is this one huge one called The lady and the Unicorn that is in a dark room to preserve the colors. It was really pretty. I also saw Middle Age jewelry, tombstones, Roman baths, intricate and elaborate altars, statues, shoes, swords, stained glass, and armor. Very cool place if you are into the Middle Ages.
That evening I went with Henry to an American jazz club. We heard a girl named Felicia from the US who has lived and studied in South Africa and is now in Paris. Henry met her while he was doing volunteer work in South Africa. She sang some really great soulful stuff and had this deep sultry voice. The pianist and bass player were American, but the bass guitarist (Michel) was French. My favorite song of hers was "Summertime" but she also did renditions of "A Few of My Favorite Things" and "God Bless the Child." It was gorgeous and we were sitting right next to her.
Madame went out of town this week and left the apartment all to me! So on Friday after class, I rushed home to make dinner for Hayley and Amy. I had know idea how to work Madame's oven. I needed to set it at 200 degrees celsius and the two knobs were only numbered 1-6 and 1-10. I also didn't know if I needed to light it with a match because she has a gas stove. I was making a chicken and potato casserole and was worried i would overcook it on the stove. It turned out ok though! I found the recipe on an easy-French cooking website. it is made with white wine and was really good. Hayley and Amy came over and brought wine, cheese, bread, and salad. We lit a candle and used Madame's prettydishes while listening to Edith Piaf, the French singer.
Afterwards we went to a bar near my house. It is a rum bar so they had about 20 different kinds of rum in these big jars. From chocolate to mango to raspberry. All the French kids in there were singing along with the music, these French songs we had never heard. It was so rowdy and fun. We really need to learn those songs though. Amy spent the night because she is home alone too.
Monday, February 25, 2008
Funny Frenchisms
This will be a rolling list of things I find funny. According to the French:
1. black and brown do match
2. white shoes go with anything, at anytime of year
3. iced beverages do not exist
4. ham trumps chicken and turkey
5. peanut butter is extremely rare and expensive
6. stale bread is ok
7. police officers rollerblade
8. rollerblading is masculine
9. so are Longchamps bags
10. two heterosexual and grown men may ride together on a motorcycle
11. eggs need not be refrigerated
12. milk is always whole
13. when walking your dog, leash is optional
14. a grassy patch in a park is no place for sitting, playing, or doing sit-ups
15. tax and tip are included
16. accidental eye contact with a boy on the metro="please come talk to me and ask me for my number"
1. black and brown do match
2. white shoes go with anything, at anytime of year
3. iced beverages do not exist
4. ham trumps chicken and turkey
5. peanut butter is extremely rare and expensive
6. stale bread is ok
7. police officers rollerblade
8. rollerblading is masculine
9. so are Longchamps bags
10. two heterosexual and grown men may ride together on a motorcycle
11. eggs need not be refrigerated
12. milk is always whole
13. when walking your dog, leash is optional
14. a grassy patch in a park is no place for sitting, playing, or doing sit-ups
15. tax and tip are included
16. accidental eye contact with a boy on the metro="please come talk to me and ask me for my number"
Sunday, February 24, 2008
London with my Best Mates!
First of all, I had a blasty blast in London! I love that city so much! I saw pretty much everything I wanted to and was so happy to share the weekend with some of my best friends!
The train ride there was so easy and awesome-it was really early in the morning so I slept most of the way and it was only about 2.5 hrs. Crazy to think I was under the ocean for part of it! Eren and Jonathan met Hayley, Jayda and me at the train stop and it was such a happy little reunion! We checked into our hostel--it was out in Greenwich, real cute--and explored the area including the old royal navy academy. We tried to do some sightseeing but only made it to St Paul's Cathedral before 4 pm when all tourist spots close. We had pints at a pub on Fleet Street (from "Sweeney Todd") and just caught up. That night we met up with 2 other girls from Tulane who are studying in London and went to this pub/restaurant for fish and chips--my first time! I didnt like it that much, honestly, but it was the experience that counts. We then went out to the bars and clubs around Piccadilly--this one club had a cover band that we all really liked. Jonathan and I stayed out longer than everyone else and just explored some more bars. We even rode on the top of a double decker bus! Saturday morning we rose very early because we wanted to get tickets to a show for that night. We ended up scoring "Spamelot" tix for only 30 pounds (1/2 price!!!) Saturday was a sightseeing day and we did it all! Saw the changing of the guards, Buckingham Palace, Westminster Abbey, Hyde Park, the London Eye (we didnt go up though), Leicester Square, Trafalgar Square, London Tower--did go in here and saw Britain's crown jewels (breathtaking!), the old torture chamber instruments, the famous ravens and everything-So neat! especially since I just finished reading THE OTHER BOLEYN GIRL about King Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn. We even stopped while we were walking over a bridge to play "London Bridges." We had lunch at a Subway (haha) and then went back to the hostel to change. We had dinner in Chinatown --so good. Poor London isn't exactly known for its food.
The best part for me was "Spamelot" that night. I really loved it. I was quoting the lines and thinking of Robbie the whole time. "'Tis but a scratch," "Five is right out" and "We are the Knights who say 'Ni.'"
It was really funny and cute and the singing was wonderful. The entire audience even joined in when they sang "Always Look on the Bright Side of Life" and whistled along with them. After that, we went to a pub in Euston Square and just enjoyed each other's company for a few hours before we caught the bus back to the hostel. Before my train back to Paris this morning I had a cup of tea and even put a little cream in it for the effect.
Such a fun weekend and so nice to see some really good friends across the pond. We all loved their funny phrases, "cheers (or cheerio)" "mate" "bloody," and the styles are so different than in Paris. It was also a nice break to speak the language;)
Here are some funny things I liked about London: on the street, they have printed "look left" or "look right" depending on where you're crossing so tourists don't get hit by unexpected oncoming traffic (driving the wrong way), their cigarette packs say "Smoking Kills" in big block letters--no Surgeon General's polite warning here, the girls there are thicker and wear tighter clothes than Parisian girls, they also have no rules about white shoes after labor day.
Thursday, February 14, 2008
J'aime aujourd'hui!
February 13, 2008
Ah! Today was the best day. I woke up and headed over to le marché on Place Monge. So cute! I was a little intimidated at the meat and fish counters, but I did buy fruits and veggies. I was just really proud of myself for finding my way there on foot (only a 20 minute walk) and ordering in French (even though a whole kilo of carrots is too much lol). I caught the metro to school because I wanted to use the internet and I booked my tickets (en train!) to London! I am so excited! Jayda (studying in Switzerland this semester) is meeting me here and coming with me from Paris and Eren (studying in Madrid) is meeting us there. My buddy, Consalvo (studying in Cambridge) is also coming into the city for the weekend. I am going to try to meet up with my friend, Vic, from high school who is going to grad school at Oxford. I know, right, how cool is she? We are going to try to see “Wicked” also while we are there. Could life be sweeter?
I came home, used Madame’s salad spinner to wash my lettuce, did some Art History reading, and then took a run (aaah best part of the day). I almost didn’t go because my shin is a POS and has been giving me problems lately, but today it was good! I went my normal route across the Seine (!) but turned left for a change, ended up on a little footpath that ran right along the river! I was this close to being in the water (I am making a small space between my forefinger and thumb right now) and a Bateuax Parisian, those tour boats, even floated by me! I wouldn’t suggest it though because the cobblestones were a little awk to run on. I randomly came across a little park that I have seen from the Metro window, there were a lot of young kids and musicians sitting on the grass looking out over the Seine and playing music, I continued on and found myself at the Bastille (!) next to it there were a bunch of skateboarders pulling tricks on a slab of cement. I crossed back over the river and followed a directive sign towards Place d’Italie (chez moi) and ran smack dab into the Jardin des Plantes—oh what a happy surprise! It is known for its botanical gardens, the Grande Gallerie de l’Evolution and three other natural history museums. Supposedly Paris’ oldest tree is in here somewhere, too. I ran behind this older man in short shorts for awhile and then took a steep hill up and around some sort of monument—I was smiling the whole time because the park is just breathtaking…I can’t even imagine what Spring will be like. I found my way out and figured out my way home from there. Oh it was just such a glorious day—plenty of sun, yet perfectly chilly. L O V E L Y.
Ah! Today was the best day. I woke up and headed over to le marché on Place Monge. So cute! I was a little intimidated at the meat and fish counters, but I did buy fruits and veggies. I was just really proud of myself for finding my way there on foot (only a 20 minute walk) and ordering in French (even though a whole kilo of carrots is too much lol). I caught the metro to school because I wanted to use the internet and I booked my tickets (en train!) to London! I am so excited! Jayda (studying in Switzerland this semester) is meeting me here and coming with me from Paris and Eren (studying in Madrid) is meeting us there. My buddy, Consalvo (studying in Cambridge) is also coming into the city for the weekend. I am going to try to meet up with my friend, Vic, from high school who is going to grad school at Oxford. I know, right, how cool is she? We are going to try to see “Wicked” also while we are there. Could life be sweeter?
I came home, used Madame’s salad spinner to wash my lettuce, did some Art History reading, and then took a run (aaah best part of the day). I almost didn’t go because my shin is a POS and has been giving me problems lately, but today it was good! I went my normal route across the Seine (!) but turned left for a change, ended up on a little footpath that ran right along the river! I was this close to being in the water (I am making a small space between my forefinger and thumb right now) and a Bateuax Parisian, those tour boats, even floated by me! I wouldn’t suggest it though because the cobblestones were a little awk to run on. I randomly came across a little park that I have seen from the Metro window, there were a lot of young kids and musicians sitting on the grass looking out over the Seine and playing music, I continued on and found myself at the Bastille (!) next to it there were a bunch of skateboarders pulling tricks on a slab of cement. I crossed back over the river and followed a directive sign towards Place d’Italie (chez moi) and ran smack dab into the Jardin des Plantes—oh what a happy surprise! It is known for its botanical gardens, the Grande Gallerie de l’Evolution and three other natural history museums. Supposedly Paris’ oldest tree is in here somewhere, too. I ran behind this older man in short shorts for awhile and then took a steep hill up and around some sort of monument—I was smiling the whole time because the park is just breathtaking…I can’t even imagine what Spring will be like. I found my way out and figured out my way home from there. Oh it was just such a glorious day—plenty of sun, yet perfectly chilly. L O V E L Y.
le Week-end
February 11, 2008
This weekend flew by as usual. Thursday night, a guy who works at the center (Alex) and his friend met three of us girls from my conversation class at a restaurant to practice French conversation and just to hang out. The restaurant, Chez Gladine, was wonderful! So typically French! Small and crowded—with only a couple of servers for the whole place. We ordered a charcuterie plate, a tray with about five different types of ham and a few pickles. It had chorizo, smoked ham, little sausages, big sausages, and I tried paté for the first time! It was ok, but I prefer other things. i was struggling at one point to pick up a slice of sausage with my fork and Alex told me to just grab with my hand. I said, “C’est impoli, non?” and he said that it is totally normal to grab things off a plate like that, even in a restaurant…Perhaps not a fancy restaurant, but this was ok. I ordered a salad that came in this huge silver mixing bowl (like the one we have at home, mom) and it came with diced cheese, round slices of fried potatoes, a large slice of ham and the best part an egg…over EASY (!) on top. It was sooo good and I was surprised I liked the egg. The conversation went well. We talked about the recent (January) ban of smoking indoors and Alex got into it. He thought it was crazy for the government to be able to prohibit something like that. I said it was bad for one’s health. He shot back (wine glass in hand, and motioning towards mine) so is drinking...and driving a car. He said it is part of the atmosphere and that people shouldn’t be criminalized and sent outside during a meal if they like to smoke. I strongly disagree with him on that, and tried to argue for as long and well as I could…but my vocabulary ran out. ;-)
On the walk home, I suddenly realized we were standing outside of the hotel that I stayed in my first time in Paris (Di and Mom!) I got all nostalgic and happy remembering our fun times there back in 2005—at the marché dans la rue and the Tabac ordering petits café au laits. I can’t believe how close it is to where I live now!
After a day of class on Friday, I met my French friend, Emmanuelle at a little café. We shared a crepe with nutella and bananas (staple food here) and each had a hot drink. We ended up talking for about 3 hours. She studied in London during her college years so her English is really good and she puts up with my French. She asked me about the presidential primaries and who I though would win, etc. I explained that although in France it is portrayed as a competition mainly between Hilary and Obama, that the real competition comes later between the Democrats and Republicans. I even talked to her about the Electoral College which, surprise?, she thinks is pointless.
Saturday I checked out Musée de l’Orangerie right by the Tuleries Garden with Hayley and Amy. It has Monet’s big water lily paintings. We also saw pieces by Picasso, Matisse, Cezanne and Guillarmi. It was a beautiful day so we sat outside for awhile and enjoyed the view of the garden on one side and the Tour Eiffel on the other.
That evening, the whole program went to a play, “On ne badine pas avec l’amour,” by Alfred de Musset. It was really well done—the actors were great and the set was just a large, slanted slab of grass. Unfortunately it was in Classical French so we didn’t understand a whole lot. We got the basic love triangle, but were a little confused about the deaths. One of my friends was upset because the only word he understood was “cousine” and that was what the two lovers called each other.
The theater, Théâtre de la Tempête, was really interesting and nice. It is located on the outskirts of Paris in Cartouchie. We had dinner, quiche, salad and a brownie and a glass of red wine.
I live in the 13th arrondissement and it is known for its Chinese population. On Sunday we went to the Chinese New Year parade just down the street from my apartment building. It was packed! The streets were sooo crowded. We watched the parade on Avenue de Choisy—floats carrying Chinese women in traditional costumes dancing with fans, men with drums, masks, painted faces, flags, confetti, balloons and big dragons. It was my first time going to something like that—how funny that happened in Paris. Every other storefront is a Chinese restaurant and a few girls stopped to get fried rice. When I went to bed that night I could hear the fireworks going off.
We have been discussing President Sarkozy a lot in both my Modern France and Muslim Presence in Europe classes. I even tend to bring him up in conversations with French peple I meet or my host mom, Madame Lafont. Lately we have discussed his nomination for the mayor of Neuilly, suburb of Paris. A man who has no political experience and seems like an absurd choice for the well-to-do area…Also, his personal life is very interesting to me. The fact that it is being made so public in the first place is extremely unusual for France’s president. Also, that he has been divorced twice and is now married again would never fly in the U.S. Plus, the way he is going about reforms now that he is in office is driving the French people, especially Madame who thinks he is “un dictateur,” crazy. My friend Mary’s host mom thinks he can’t do his job as president because he is in love with Carla Bruni. How is anyone supposed to run a country when they’re in love? … Wait, what?
Madame and I had dinner together last night. She made rice, Ratatouille and little tofu patties. She said she had to buy the tofu at a natural food store, but she told me where one is so I can go there. We talked for a long time and I learned that when she was 21 and left home for the first time, she went to Morocco to teach French to little kids! I thought that was really interesting. She said my French was really improving and commented on how well I can construct my sentences (lol). She’s sweet.
This weekend flew by as usual. Thursday night, a guy who works at the center (Alex) and his friend met three of us girls from my conversation class at a restaurant to practice French conversation and just to hang out. The restaurant, Chez Gladine, was wonderful! So typically French! Small and crowded—with only a couple of servers for the whole place. We ordered a charcuterie plate, a tray with about five different types of ham and a few pickles. It had chorizo, smoked ham, little sausages, big sausages, and I tried paté for the first time! It was ok, but I prefer other things. i was struggling at one point to pick up a slice of sausage with my fork and Alex told me to just grab with my hand. I said, “C’est impoli, non?” and he said that it is totally normal to grab things off a plate like that, even in a restaurant…Perhaps not a fancy restaurant, but this was ok. I ordered a salad that came in this huge silver mixing bowl (like the one we have at home, mom) and it came with diced cheese, round slices of fried potatoes, a large slice of ham and the best part an egg…over EASY (!) on top. It was sooo good and I was surprised I liked the egg. The conversation went well. We talked about the recent (January) ban of smoking indoors and Alex got into it. He thought it was crazy for the government to be able to prohibit something like that. I said it was bad for one’s health. He shot back (wine glass in hand, and motioning towards mine) so is drinking...and driving a car. He said it is part of the atmosphere and that people shouldn’t be criminalized and sent outside during a meal if they like to smoke. I strongly disagree with him on that, and tried to argue for as long and well as I could…but my vocabulary ran out. ;-)
On the walk home, I suddenly realized we were standing outside of the hotel that I stayed in my first time in Paris (Di and Mom!) I got all nostalgic and happy remembering our fun times there back in 2005—at the marché dans la rue and the Tabac ordering petits café au laits. I can’t believe how close it is to where I live now!
After a day of class on Friday, I met my French friend, Emmanuelle at a little café. We shared a crepe with nutella and bananas (staple food here) and each had a hot drink. We ended up talking for about 3 hours. She studied in London during her college years so her English is really good and she puts up with my French. She asked me about the presidential primaries and who I though would win, etc. I explained that although in France it is portrayed as a competition mainly between Hilary and Obama, that the real competition comes later between the Democrats and Republicans. I even talked to her about the Electoral College which, surprise?, she thinks is pointless.
Saturday I checked out Musée de l’Orangerie right by the Tuleries Garden with Hayley and Amy. It has Monet’s big water lily paintings. We also saw pieces by Picasso, Matisse, Cezanne and Guillarmi. It was a beautiful day so we sat outside for awhile and enjoyed the view of the garden on one side and the Tour Eiffel on the other.
That evening, the whole program went to a play, “On ne badine pas avec l’amour,” by Alfred de Musset. It was really well done—the actors were great and the set was just a large, slanted slab of grass. Unfortunately it was in Classical French so we didn’t understand a whole lot. We got the basic love triangle, but were a little confused about the deaths. One of my friends was upset because the only word he understood was “cousine” and that was what the two lovers called each other.
The theater, Théâtre de la Tempête, was really interesting and nice. It is located on the outskirts of Paris in Cartouchie. We had dinner, quiche, salad and a brownie and a glass of red wine.
I live in the 13th arrondissement and it is known for its Chinese population. On Sunday we went to the Chinese New Year parade just down the street from my apartment building. It was packed! The streets were sooo crowded. We watched the parade on Avenue de Choisy—floats carrying Chinese women in traditional costumes dancing with fans, men with drums, masks, painted faces, flags, confetti, balloons and big dragons. It was my first time going to something like that—how funny that happened in Paris. Every other storefront is a Chinese restaurant and a few girls stopped to get fried rice. When I went to bed that night I could hear the fireworks going off.
We have been discussing President Sarkozy a lot in both my Modern France and Muslim Presence in Europe classes. I even tend to bring him up in conversations with French peple I meet or my host mom, Madame Lafont. Lately we have discussed his nomination for the mayor of Neuilly, suburb of Paris. A man who has no political experience and seems like an absurd choice for the well-to-do area…Also, his personal life is very interesting to me. The fact that it is being made so public in the first place is extremely unusual for France’s president. Also, that he has been divorced twice and is now married again would never fly in the U.S. Plus, the way he is going about reforms now that he is in office is driving the French people, especially Madame who thinks he is “un dictateur,” crazy. My friend Mary’s host mom thinks he can’t do his job as president because he is in love with Carla Bruni. How is anyone supposed to run a country when they’re in love? … Wait, what?
Madame and I had dinner together last night. She made rice, Ratatouille and little tofu patties. She said she had to buy the tofu at a natural food store, but she told me where one is so I can go there. We talked for a long time and I learned that when she was 21 and left home for the first time, she went to Morocco to teach French to little kids! I thought that was really interesting. She said my French was really improving and commented on how well I can construct my sentences (lol). She’s sweet.
Wednesday, February 6, 2008
One whole month!
My weekend with Thomas in town was so nice! We spent all of Saturday together. We met up with three more Americans and went to the Notre Dame. Thomas hadn't been to Paris so it was really fun to be with him during his first trip--he was so giddy and excited. We toured around a bit--Hotel de Ville, le Louvre, le Jardin des Tuileries and that area. That night we met up with my girl friends near the Bastille for dinner at the Bastille Pub. It was so good! (like any meal has been bad...well except when I ate at the University Restaurant next to AUP...that was bad) I had a salad, steak and potatoes, and chocolate mousse for dessert. The girls and I continued on to a few bars, met a nice Frenchman named Jean and talked to with him and his friends for awhile. Jean even asked me for my 0-6 ("zero six:" slang for a cell phone number because they all start with 06).
The next morning I met Thomas and another friend from Tulane, Brennan, in Montmartre. We had lunch at a really nice restaurant (well Thomas did) and just walked around taking pictures of the Moulin Rouge and being cutesy tourists. They left from there and I went to Les Deux Moulins, the café in Amélie!! It was awesome. I had a café créme and made my Paris to-do list: all things I must do before I leave. A few have stars next to them if I want to do them with Roxy/ my mom, dad, Di and Tom when they come.
That night was Super Bowl Sunday aux ´Etats-Unis...don't worry we still celebrated in Paris. Two kids in my program, Jaclyn and Justin are from New York. We all met at The Moose, a Canadian Bar in the Latin Quarter at 10 p.m. for 1 a.m. local game time. I am pretty sure every American in Paris was at this bar...no joke. It was delightfully packed and the crowd was wild. Jaclyn and Justin were really fun to watch the game with...Jaclyn cried when the Giants won. A few of us girls danced during the Tom Petty half-time show, obvi. It was hilarious. We caught the 5:30 a.m. Metro home the next morning...
Last night was Mardi Gras. It was bitter sweet being here and not in New Orleans. Hayley, Amy and Audrey were sweethearts and shared a bottle of wine with me at this bar near the Bastille (J'aime beaucoup the area around the Bastille).
Tonight we went on a tour of the Montparnasse cafés where famous writers and painters used to meet and dream up masterpieces. Montparnasse became famous at the beginning of the 20th century, referred to as "les Années Folles (the Crazy Years)", when it was the heart of intellectual and artistic life in Paris. Between 1921 and 1924, the number of Americans in Paris expanded from 6,000 to 30,000. The cafés we visited, Le Dôme, La Closerie des Lilas, La Rotonde, Le Select, the Dingo Bar and La Coupole are all still in business and were frequented by Picasso, Hemingway, Fitzgerald and Gertrude Stein. We even saw Picasso's house! It was a really nice tour.
I am hoping to go to a jazz club tomorrow night. I will let you know how that goes:)
Friday, February 1, 2008
Fin de Janvier
We went to the Musee d'Orsay yesterday for my Art History class and it was awesome! We saw Degas, Monet, Manet, Van Gogh and Gauguin (all the impressionist artists we're learning about in class!) We wore these ear piece headphone things (My prof called them earrings--English is his second language) and he wore a mic to tell us about the paintings as we toured. It was so wonderful. The museum is an old train station. It's huge and beautiful and light and there is a café that is behind the huge clock so one wall you look out through it. There is also a ball room with ornate ceilings and statues. I learned so much and realized how much greater and more interesting it is to go to a museum with someone who can explain things clearly. My professor knew so much about the paintings and was able to share their historical significances with us. Little thingsin the paintings that i would never notice on my own turned out to mean something extraordinary...like some huge transformation in the style of art that was happening at the time. So cool.
After the museum, a few of us girls stopped in a café for hot chocolate and shared two cheese plates. It was bitter cold, wet and rainy so the "chocolat chaud" was perfect. I then went home, took a hot bath, read some stuff for class and took a short nap. Then I met Hayley and Amy at the Bastille at 9:30. There are tons of adorable cafés, restaurants, bars, and shops in that area. We went in one bar that had a submarine/extreme sports/Aussie theme feel to it. The guys working there and their friends were pretty funny and cute and we ended up hanging around for awhile talking to them. Then we went to another bar down the street where we made friends again! This really cool girl, Olivia from Normandy and I really hit it off--she said she could understand my French (!) Her friends were nice too and we ended up hanging out with them for awhile! She gave me her number and I am to call her tomorrow for some concert or something. I thought that was really nice... I always really appreciate friendly Parisians:) My friend Thomas from Tulane is studying in Lyon for the semester and he is visiting Paris for the weekend! It will be really nice to see him. Too bad we're both missing Mardi Gras weekend! We will have to make up for it somehow!
Chloé
After the museum, a few of us girls stopped in a café for hot chocolate and shared two cheese plates. It was bitter cold, wet and rainy so the "chocolat chaud" was perfect. I then went home, took a hot bath, read some stuff for class and took a short nap. Then I met Hayley and Amy at the Bastille at 9:30. There are tons of adorable cafés, restaurants, bars, and shops in that area. We went in one bar that had a submarine/extreme sports/Aussie theme feel to it. The guys working there and their friends were pretty funny and cute and we ended up hanging around for awhile talking to them. Then we went to another bar down the street where we made friends again! This really cool girl, Olivia from Normandy and I really hit it off--she said she could understand my French (!) Her friends were nice too and we ended up hanging out with them for awhile! She gave me her number and I am to call her tomorrow for some concert or something. I thought that was really nice... I always really appreciate friendly Parisians:) My friend Thomas from Tulane is studying in Lyon for the semester and he is visiting Paris for the weekend! It will be really nice to see him. Too bad we're both missing Mardi Gras weekend! We will have to make up for it somehow!
Chloé
Tuesday, January 29, 2008
Madrid!
Last Wednesday I went on a walking tour of the ''Banlieue' which is kind of like the suburbs of Paris. It is so much different than the inner city-much more diverse and ...comment-dit on? ghetto? It was interesting though and I love seing pqrts of the city I haven't yet.
My Art History Class started on Thursday and that seems like it's going to be sooo interesting! We loked at slides of 30 paintings from the transition period into Impressionism. Our professor was so interesting in his explanations and interpretations. Degas, Monet, Manet..the best part=next class we are meeting at the Musée d'Orsay to see the real life actual paintings!
I witnessed my first grève (strike) last week! It was the lower grade school teachers. Just outside my school on the main road they were marching with banners, balloons, and cars playing loud music. It was like a big party in the closed off street and I thought it was cool to see them with so much pasion and conviction. The political activism of the French is one of the things that has drawn me to them!
This past weekend I went to Madrid, Spain! I have two good friends who are studying there--Eren and Deborah--and I also hung out with the other dozen or so Tulane kids there! It was awesome. I had never been to Spain and really loved it. Hayley and Amy went with me and they were such good sports. We had a bunch of mishaps on our way there so it was good to be there with laidback girls who just want to have fun. We flew Ryanair (cheap, but kind of a hassle so I wouldn't suggest it) and stayed in a hostel near the Chueca metro stop/area.
Eren met us and tok us to this cute tapas restaurant. I loved it! They love ham as much as the French do. We had these little croquettes that remind me of pigs ina blanket, and this rice dish that reminded me of jambalaya called Paella and sangria. Then Eren showed us all the cool landmarks of the city on Saturday-the Royal Palace and cathedral, two really beautiful squares, Sol (the Madrid times square) then we went to this Chocolateria for churros dipped in creamy warm chocolate. Probs my new favorite food. We then went back to the hostel for a siesta. (yes, i embrace cultures everywhere I go).
Dinner was at this awesome restaurant/bar where we again had tapas. My favorite ones were the chorizos (spicy sausage) and the salad with cod (yeah! fish! i know! i actually really liked it!). It was sooo good and fun! then Eren took us to this 7 story club, Capitale, where we did the Soulja Boi on one floor then danced to techno music on stage on the lowest floor. It was crazy and so packed! I loved it obvi.
The next morning we went to the biggest flea market ever. It was huge with soooo much...junk. It was cool to see so many people dressed in colors other than grey and black (haha) and to hear Spanish. Its a beautiful city with gorgeous architecture and huge buildings. That afternoon we spent at this great park with this lake, all these families, a crystal palace, all these ducks and dogs, rollerbladers, people playing music and dancing everywhere. It's like a party every Sunday!
Ok random fact--Madrid is a huge seafood town! We went to a restaurant that night and basically had a crab feast! Two guys from Tulane joined us and they were hilarious. Super wonderful weekend all in all. Good to be back though...I'm sure Marie Claude missed me...even though she thinks I broke her little washing machine.
Love you all!
Chloe
ps i love getting mail:
CIEE/CPEC
37 bis rue de Sentier
Paris, France 75002
Monday, January 21, 2008
Wagg
January 21, 2008
On Friday the 18th, I went with Henri from Morehouse College in Atlanta to the BHV to buy an adaptor. Oh my gosh it’s so huge!! Imagine a Target, JCPenney’s, and a smaller Barnes and Noble and Home Depot all in a six-story building.
At 9:30 we met up with Hayley, Amy, Shallon and Audrey in St. Germain. Gosh that area is cool. We mosied around for awhile and then settled on Café Jade, this hip little bar/restaurant/café. They were playing (fairly loud) really cool techno beats, although it’s January and kinda cold, a lot of people were sitting outside lining the street, smoking and ddrinking these drinks with the craziest garnishes—pineapple wedges and marshmallows. We grapped a couple tables near the door and admired how chic the place was. Our waitress was the pretty blonde who spoke a tiny bit of English and was wearing a cute little blue dress that resembled a flight attendant’s uniform from the 60’s. We had a good time just talking, getting to know each other and laughing.
Later, three more girls met up with us and we went to a Boite, a dance club, down the street. It was suggested by our waitress and was a little cher for our blood so it will probably be our only time in there. It’s called Wagg and the theme of the night was “Disco Carwash” so the music was all disco and funky beats. (Hilarious French dance moves, obvi.)
Saturday I met Hayley and Amy on the Champs-Elysées for a bit of strolling and people watching. That is the place to do it. The “steeles” (Dad) are incredivble, everyone is dressed like they are set for a runway show or something. It’s all so sleak, chic and flattering.
At 9, we met with Eva from GWU at a wine bar, Les Tartines, in the 4th arrondissement. It was so cute! It seemed very old-fashioned and was playing oldies (Al Green and the Jackson Five mainly). We told stories about friends, guys, families and laughed a lot. We then met up with these two guiys we met from Florida at a nearby bar, Bar Five. We met a few Englishmen and Scots there, too.
So, I’ve got another Metro story. I got on by myself, heading into the centre to meet up with girls and was following the Metro rule of not making eye contact or smiling too much, I was just looking at the floor. Out of nowhere this little French guy sits down next to me and starts speeding a long in French. His buddy is standing by the sliding doors and I can hear him saying he doesn’t think I’m French. The one who I learn later is named Hills keeps trying to start a French conversation with me and insists I do know French I am just ignoring him. (Franchement, it was a little bit of both, but he spoke too fast for me to follow.) We ended up having a conversation when he realized I was American (obvi. asked if I liked Bush “Tu aime Bush?”). He would ask me broken-English questions and I’d answer in French with my awful accent. Pretty amusing. We exchanged numbers and he later texted me “C (I think that’s short for c’est) Hills. We can see us the thursday.”
Last night I sat in a brasserie/café, La Rosaraie, in my arrondissement and sipped an espresso while I read this book, “Almost Frnech” that I picked up at school. It’s about a young woman who follows her heart and moves to Paris from Australia. She talks a lot about cultural differences and the funny way French have of doing things. The café was really cute, decorated in burnt orange, red and deep purple with rectangular lamps hanging from the ceiling and there were quite a few étudiants in there studying. Rue de Tolbiac where the café is located has strung these beautiful blue Christmas lights that blink above it. Many of the rues in the city have this cute detail right now.
With my class schedule, it looks like I don’t have class on Monday or Wednesday. How cool! So I will probably be exploring and stuff on these daysJ
Friday, January 18, 2008
Très cool!
I live with a little old lady, Madame Laffont in the 13th arrondissement. I call her Madame, but her first name is Marie Claude It is a very modern quarter and has one of the China towns in it. I live on the 9th floor of an apt . The apt is small, but cute. She has a teeny kitchen which is attached to the living room. Then a small doorway goes into her bedroom so there isnt any real barrier between her room and the kitchen/tv room. Because she doesnt wake up until after i leave for school I eat breakfast at her house, in my room. I have a refrigerator and a microwave which is really nice! She has provided me with muesli, a coffee pot, coffee, yogurt and milk. I am on my own for the rest of my meals, except for on Tuesday nights when I eat with her. Last Tuesday she made pork chops in celery and tomatoes. She eats every lunch and dinner with wine and finishes a meal with cheese--they have a different one in france for every day. Then comes dessert. I live right by two metro stops so thats cool. You can get anwhere on the Metro--it takes about 35 minutes and i make just one change to get to school. I went to the movies on sunday night--''Reviens-moi'' (''Atonement'' in the US) with English as the lang and French subtitles. On Monday 6 of us girls went to dinnner at a sushi restaurant in the 7th arrondissement. As we left the restaurant, we were walking down a hill toward the metro and just above the trees, we could see the top half of the Eiffel TOwer. At just that moment, the clock struck 11 and on the hour all the lights on the tower go into this beautiful flashing sparkling mode. So we just stopped and watched for awhile. So beautiful.
On the metro home, this drunk French man approached Hayley and me and harassed us:
''Americans. F* America...W. BUsh. F* Bush!!''
cool.
Two nights ago I went on a walking tour of Belleville, this cool eccentric part of the city where a lot of artists live. We had a guide who explained to us the murals and graffitti and their artists. We stopped in a studio of this artist, Pedro, who does stencils and spray paints them. Famous people, Marilyn Monroe, Jimi Hendrix, Beethoven, and others. THey all have cool backgrounds/frames that he paints them onto. My favorite was Rosa Parks sprayed onto a map of the RER bus system in Paris.
We stopped in a café for hot chocolate and then walked out to a beautiful view of the entire city.
Then a few friends and I went to a cute/chic/happenin restaurant where a poetry reading was going on. We sat out on the street even though it was pretty cold. I had this incredible sandwich with 3 cheeses and tomatoes.
Last night was the most fun night so far! Madame had 3 of her good lady friends over for a New Years dinner party and invited me to join them. We had champage with the caandied/choc pecans I brought from home, then 4 types of ham that she insisted I try (Rox and Di would have been SOL), then this old-fashioned French dish--like a sliced potato and sour cream pie thing with crust covering it? i dont know but I helped her make it :), then salad, of course 3 types of cheese and bread and then pumpkin pie for dessert. She was all excited that she made an American dessert and the ladies were impressed--they'd never heard of it before! It was really good on homemade crust. The conversation was so interesting and I kept up as best I could. Madale thinks Sarkozy is ''un dictateur'' haha that's new. The other ladies are all very cool. One's from Algeria, one is really into art and musuems and the other has a granddaughter my age!
Then I met 10 American kids at this bar just a few Metro stops from my house. It apparently is super old-- from the Revolution? It was blasting Spanish music and totally happenin. They were a blast and we got shots on the house from the bartender. Then as we were getting ready to leave, one bartender hollers at us and sprays us with a bottle of champagne! haha so fun.
Love you all!! take care
On the metro home, this drunk French man approached Hayley and me and harassed us:
''Americans. F* America...W. BUsh. F* Bush!!''
cool.
Two nights ago I went on a walking tour of Belleville, this cool eccentric part of the city where a lot of artists live. We had a guide who explained to us the murals and graffitti and their artists. We stopped in a studio of this artist, Pedro, who does stencils and spray paints them. Famous people, Marilyn Monroe, Jimi Hendrix, Beethoven, and others. THey all have cool backgrounds/frames that he paints them onto. My favorite was Rosa Parks sprayed onto a map of the RER bus system in Paris.
We stopped in a café for hot chocolate and then walked out to a beautiful view of the entire city.
Then a few friends and I went to a cute/chic/happenin restaurant where a poetry reading was going on. We sat out on the street even though it was pretty cold. I had this incredible sandwich with 3 cheeses and tomatoes.
My friends are from colorado, atlanta, austin and minnesota. they go to GWU, UC Boulder and UMinn. My classes start on Monday for real. We are just doing intensive French right now and it is good i am learning a lot.
The French women are all so beautiful and chic. They usually wear skinny pants: dark jeans or dress pants, all of them are extremely thin and over 5'5'' i'd say. tthey also wear really cute tops and really cute coats. always heels usually boots up to the knee.Last night was the most fun night so far! Madame had 3 of her good lady friends over for a New Years dinner party and invited me to join them. We had champage with the caandied/choc pecans I brought from home, then 4 types of ham that she insisted I try (Rox and Di would have been SOL), then this old-fashioned French dish--like a sliced potato and sour cream pie thing with crust covering it? i dont know but I helped her make it :), then salad, of course 3 types of cheese and bread and then pumpkin pie for dessert. She was all excited that she made an American dessert and the ladies were impressed--they'd never heard of it before! It was really good on homemade crust. The conversation was so interesting and I kept up as best I could. Madale thinks Sarkozy is ''un dictateur'' haha that's new. The other ladies are all very cool. One's from Algeria, one is really into art and musuems and the other has a granddaughter my age!
Then I met 10 American kids at this bar just a few Metro stops from my house. It apparently is super old-- from the Revolution? It was blasting Spanish music and totally happenin. They were a blast and we got shots on the house from the bartender. Then as we were getting ready to leave, one bartender hollers at us and sprays us with a bottle of champagne! haha so fun.
Love you all!! take care
Monday, January 14, 2008
First Days in Paris!!
Bonjour!!Everything en route to Paris went really smoothly! I have met all the participants and directors/coordinators of the program. Everyone is so nice! I lived in the hostel with the rest of the participants (just a 10 minute walk from my school/centre). My roommate, Kelley, was from New Jersey and studied in London last semester. She is really sweet and I have also met really cool girls and boys in the program. We have gone out topractically everymeal and had really great wine and food. We all try to speak French as much as possible and are getting better all the time. We took our language test two days a ago and were placed in our Intensive Language Program groups for next week. We have 3 hrs of hardcore French monday-friday. we also get to meet our professors at the wine and cheese meet and greet on wednesday.This cute girl, Alanna, from Providence and I went running yesterday morning. We went from our hostel,through the Tuileries, down the Champs Elysees and around the round about that circles l'Arc de Triomphe and back. It was 7:30, but still very dark out b/c i think the sun rises around 8:30. We were two of the few runners that morning and mainly Parisians rushing to work. It was so nice! Beautiful lights and the weather wasn't too cold at all. I am having the best time ever! we went on a walking tour and saw the Notre Dame, had a French-speaking tour guide who told us all the hoistory and stories of the city. SO cool. I also went to the Louvre, but only for about 1 1/2 hours b/c I have already been there and will be getting an unlimited pass to go whenev i want again this semester. Everything we do and everywhere I go I have to stop and pinch myself just a little bit to make sure it's all real...I am actually living in Paris and actually doing this. I have almost figured out le Metro system and look so cute in my ballet flats, black sweaters, and red pea coat. the French girls are incredibly chic and stylish! My school is in the fabric district so there are tons of cute boutiques and designers' offices around. This evening I am moving into my host family's house and I am so nervous/excited! I have no idea what to expect! I am practicing such phrases as "thank youfor having me in your home" and "where is the can opener?" Love you all very much--I hope everything is well! I'll talk to you again soon!Chloé
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