Wednesday, June 18, 2008

Croatia=gorgeous. Who would have guessed??

Croatia was incredible.
I didn’t even know what to expect and was sooo pleasantly surprised. We took a train to Zagreb, the capital, and then on down to Split. It is a common practice at the train and bus stations for little old women and men to be standing there with signs saying “Accomodation” or “Rooms for Rent,” and it’s a lot less sketchy than it sounds! We ended up staying with a Croatian woman in Split. There were also 3 guys from USC in a room. We hung out on the lady’s terrace and then went to a bar in the old city. Very beautiful, narrow, and old cobblestone streets.
The next morning we toured the old city then caught a bus down to Dubrovnik to meet our friend Eren!!
The busride was crazy. About halfway, there was a loud crunching noise and the bus skidded to a stop. From the bus window Jayda and I saw there had been a terrible accident. A couple had been riding a moto and turned the corner too quick on a slippery road (it had just rained) and had slid on their side into our lane. The bus driver tried to avoid them by almost running us off the mountain. Thank goodness there was a guardrail that barely stopped us. The bus and moto were completely wrecked and gasoline was spilling all over the street. We got off the bus and watched from the side the ambulance come and take the lady (seemed her legs was barely attached and completely raw). The man driving was dead though—his helmet was smashed and his brains were sprayed across it. I have never in my life been that close to something like that. Jayda and I held hands and talked about how precious and fragile life is. Amazing how quickly everything can change.
Our bus passed through Bosnia, so I got to watch the sunrise there. Absolutely beautiful. I had no idea!! We bought beer and fried peanuts in Bosnia just to contribute to their economy and say we had.
In Dubrovnik we stayed with another family in their extra room. It is an ancient city surrounded by walls that we walked on and took pictures. The walls go right up to the sea and it is a beautiful view. That night we had a traditional Croatian dinner at a seafood restaurant inside the old city walls.
Tuesday the ninth, we caught the early bus back to Split and then took a ferry out to the island of Hvar. The weather was gorgeous so we spent the rest of the day on the beach. I can't believe how beautiful the water is and how far down I could see!! Bright blue and clear. That night we tried Croatia's famous octopus salad! It was actually pretty good! We then danced to techno music at the beach club, Carpe Diem. For the night we rented out a bedroom over an old man's apartment. We even had our own little terrace. Eren left us the next morning to go back to Madrid, but I was so happy we got to spend a little time with him:)
Jayda and I rented a kayak the next day and took it out in the Adriatic with the big cruise ships. Such a pretty day. That evening, we hiked up to a castle that overlooks the cityy and watched the sunset from there. The harbor was so pretty to see lit up at night and from our little room's window that night we could see the castle lit up.
The next morning it started raining while we were still asleep and the cute little man we were renting from ran out and took down our laundry we had hung up to dry so it didn't get wet. How cute! He didn't speak any English but was sooo sweet to us. We left Croatia that day and headed back through Slovenia. Ljubljana, the capital is this quaint town that still has Baroque architecture with a metropolitan feel to it. We had some sort of stuffed meat with meat and walked through the open air market. We walked across the Dragon Bridge (has green dragon statues on it), past the Robba and Hercules fountains, and into the Franciscan Church (this beautiful pink and white Baroque style church in the center of the city.) We had a great day, but then had to go our separate ways from there as Jayda went back to Geneva and I headed to Paris. I got a little choked up honestly. It has been so much fun and we had so many great times together this past month.

Buda and the Pest

Kristen went to her internship in London and Callie, Jayda and I took the train from Vienna to Budapest and got in on Monday evening. That night we had our first of many eastern European signature meals. Chicken stuffed with bacon and apples. They LOVE to stuff their meat with meat. The next morning we met friends from Wisconsin in our hostel and had a sightseeing day. We went to St. Stephen’s Basilica, climbed to the top and had a beautiful view of the city. I didn’t know this until we got there but the Danube River divides it into the cities of Buda and Pest. The girls and I continued onto the House of Terror Museum at 60 Andrassy St. It is the old headquarters for both the Nazi and Soviet regimes when they controlled Budapest and is now a museum detailing those periods. It was so interesting to see how seamlessly the two regimes switched power and how Hungarians had been living in fear for a good part of the century. Then we walked down to Heroes Square—a huge plaza with grand statues of important figures in Hungarian history. We took a stroll through their gorgeous City Park and through the Castle before heading back to our hostel.
That night we went out with the Wisconsin guys and some other Quebecois friends we made (I loved talking to them in French!) This bar was really cool too. So unassuming from the outside but inside was a huge patio with graffitied walls and large picnic tables.
Wednesday we checked out the Turkish Baths at Gellert Hotel. Soo beautiful—tiled walls and huge hot tubs and pools heated by the earth. I went into the steam bath. Oh my gosh the hottest thing of my life. You walk in and cannot even see because of the thick steam. You instantly start sweating and can’t breathe. I lasted about 5-7 minutes before I rushed out and dipped in the freezing pool outside. It was awesome. Outside was a hot tub and a wave pool that went off every hour. Nice day—the kids from the hostel met us there too.
That night was the best night ever. We went to the Gödör Klub near our hostel. Everyone sits out on the grass and drinks beer while listening to live music. There’s a fountain and underneath it is the actual dance club with a glass ceiling. That night a traditional Hungarian gypsy band played under the fountain and we danced the night away to songs we didn’t understand but apparently everyone knew the words. Our friend Kyle went up on stage and danced for a free cd…
We had our traditional Hungarian dinner on Thursday—goulash (beef stew) and some sort of meat stuffed meat (I think pork stuffed chicken or vice versa). I really loved the goulash and am getting used to all the meat. They also have good beer.
On Friday the girls and I toured the parliament building. So beautiful! You have to get tickets in advance and have a tour guide. It is huge—there wasn’t a budget when it was built. Our tour guide had a very dry sense of humor that really made the tour enjoyable. We picnicked and napped on Marguerite Island on the Danube that afternoon. That was cool-there were a ton of kids playing and people running.
That evening we did a wine tour. We paid 4400 HUF (like 20 euros?) and they handed us each a wine glass and directed us down to the cellar. There were over 50 wines to taste and they told us to just let them know if one was empty and they’d open a new one. KIDS IN A CANDYSTORE. Unfortunately, Callie left from Budapest and Jayda and I continued on to Croatia.

Monday, June 2, 2008

Austria

So, in 2005 when I came to Vienna it rained and was cold and besides the opera, I was not impressed. This time, however, I had a blast. We stayed with my friend Amy in her apartment and I completely changed my opinion on the city. Amy toured us around the city through the Museum quarter and took us to a cool park with squishy purple lounge chairs and a fountain the first day. That night we had chicken schnitzel (fried chicken) and beers at the Bamraxler beer garden. I really like the atmosphere at beer gardens--tables outside with a playground and live music that is a really great place for families.
Saturday we rented bikes and rode around the city. We saw the Parliament building (second best in Europe, next to Budapest's), City Hall and Stadt Park. We took a picnic up to Schonbrunn Palace and Callie and I rolled down the grassy hills (we are growing up nicely.) That night we saw Falstaff at the Opera House-my favorite part. I love Vienna's opera house and the singing was breath taking. Then we met Amy afterwards at the Prater Amusement Park for a ride that threw us up in the air and spun around. Awesome. Afterwards we went to a bar on the Danube that was outside and faced the river. Everyone had their shoes off and feet in the sand. We also went to this part of town that has bars and restaurants called the Bermuda Triangle because you get lost there.
On Sunday we caught the three hour train to Salzburg, one of my favorite cities in Europe. It is where the "Sound Of Music" was filmed so we got a tour booklet and visited the garden where they sing "Do-Re-Mi," the cemetery they hide in, the church they're married in and then we climbed the mountain up to a really cool fortress. I loved the hike and the view from the top is totally worth it and amazing. The hills were alive with the sound of music.
I took a run with Amy on Monday morning down a horse path near her apartment. She ran the Vienna Half-Marathon in April and is a really great running buddy. We had to say goodbye to Kristen (she was starting her summer internship in London and had coffee at Café Kleine on Monday morning. The Café is quaint and frequented by young actors. I loved the "melanges," coffee and warm milk. In Austria I also tried apple strudel and the best bratwurst in the world. The chocolate's not shabby either.

Next stop, Budapest!

Italy!!

Jayda and I spent about 48 hours of travel to get from Santorini to Rome including 2 overnight ferries and 2 trains. We stopped in Athens for a few hours and toured the 2004 Olympic Stadium (where Samira swam :D) then continued on through Patras, Greece where I saw absolutely beautiful country. On the ferry from Patras to Bari, Italy I was THE most gorgeous sunset I have ever seen from the ship's deck. Incredible.
In the port city, Bari, Jayda and I walked through an open air fish market where one of the vendors convinced us to taste not only raw oysters, but raw jellyfish as well!! When in Bari...? We also went to St. Nicholas' church and saw his tomb. That night in Rome we met up with Callie and Kristen in Rome:) and caught up over a bottle of wine and sandwiches.
My first time in Rome was a blast (perhaps because my friends are so great.) We stayed in a super friendly hostel near the Termini Train Station where we had access to a kitchen and made dinner a couple nights.The first day we saw the Coliseum (took pictures with gladiators), the Forum, and the Pantheon (where we made friends with a Canadian tour guide who gave us a free tour.) We learned that Queen Margherita is buried in the Pantheon. She was from Naples, the birthplace of pizza and Italians loved her so much they named the Italian flag-colored pizza after her, the Margherita. Also, the columns were brought from Egypt and the originals had to be trimmed down 30 ft because thy were sinking the barges. That evening we went to a little island in the middle of the Tiber River and happy-houred with Barbie paper cups, red wine and lemon Fanta.
On Monday Callie and I went to the Vatican Museum in Vatican City. It was awesome. I loved the Egyptian art and we spent a good 30 minutes or so with our necks craned in the Sistine Chapel. It is so colorful and perfect. There are nine scenes from the Book of Genesis on the ceiling and the Last Judgment covering one whole wall. Then we went to St. Peter1s Basilica which I also really loved. It is humongous. Inside are markings on the floor where other smaller churches would fit. There are massive angel statues high up that are 7 feet tall but seem so much smaller from the ground. It is also awesome because all of the frescoes are actually mosaics that you can take pictures of. We had sandwiches and pasta at a restaurant nearby, Miscellanea. That night I took us on Rick Steeves walking night tour that started at Campo de Fiori abd went past Trevi Fountain (where you toss coins and wish for a return trip to Rome), then to the Spanish Steps.

Venice was the best time ever. We met Shannon, a girl who used to work in the AC and at Sports Camp in Perdanone and spent the night with her. Her husband, Johnny is stationed at Aviano Air Base and they were sweet enough to let us stay with them. Their place is gorgeous--big and out in the country. The Italian Alps are just beyond their backyard! Shannon took us on a drive through the mountains up to a church, then to this awesome minty turquoise colored lake and then up to the very top where a resort usually is. From the top, you can look down through the clouds and see the Friuli Region. We also did our laundry at the base, shopped at the BX for American products (honey Chex Mix) and had a fried chicken lunch at Popeye's.
Our hotel in Venice was actually in Mestre--on the mainland and just a bus ride away from Venice. Our first night, we went on a gondola ride with Emiliano, the gondolier. He had a gorgeous voice and sang Italian love songs. He let me sing a song and I chose Whitney Houston's "I Will Always Love You." Callie cried. Emiliano and I obviously became best friends and (get ready) he let me wear his hat and drive the gondola!!! We met some of his Gondolier friends later that evening and all got drinks at a bar in Venice. The hilarious part was the next morning when we went to buy a gondola calendar at a souvenir shop and realized we had hung out with Mr. April the night before.
We spent all day exploring Venice--saw Piazza San Marco, took a ferry down the Grand Canal, had a great lunch of pizza and spaghetti, and went to a glass blowing demonstration. I love Italy. The whole time we were there, us girls just joked and laughed, had a bunch of pizza and at least two gelatos a day (pear and chocolate1s the best but I also liked rose and peach!)